Trekking in Sapa with Sapa Sisters

Sapa valley is a popular trekking area located in the Lao Cai province, northwest of Hanoi and bordering China in the north. Sapa is known for its dramatic landscapes with rice terraces and for the diversity in its hill tribes, such as the Hmong, Dzao or Tay.

This post is part of my 3-week Vietnam itinerary. Check it out in the link below!

→ Ultimate 3 weeks Vietnam Itinerary: North to South

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Brief history of Sapa

Sapa town, the capital of the commune, started off as a marketplace for the different hill tribes of the region. During French colonial times, the town became a military advance in the border with China, which was the first time that Sapa appeared in the national maps since the lowland Vietnamese had never colonized the highlands of Vietnam.

Today, Sapa is a popular tourist destination to explore the rural lifestyle of Vietnam, learn from Vietnam’s cultural heritage through the hill tribes that keep their old ways, far from the modern lifestyles of big cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh city; and a perfect destination for trekking experiences through the valleys and peaks, the rice terraces, and Vietnam’s highest mountains, including the highest peak Fansipan (3143 m).

Trekking experiences in Sapa

Trekking in Sapa is a very popular activity in Vietnam and it’s a must in many travelers’ itineraries. However, since it is not directly in the route Hanoi – Ho Chi Minh that most tours operate, it still does not host hoardes of tourists (with the exception of Sapa town, that sees MANY Chinese tourist throughout the year). The fact that there are infinite trekking trails (and improvised ones) helps getting a very authentic experience even in high season!

It is totally possible to trek in Sapa free-style, since it is a very safe region and there is plenty of accommodation options (mostly homestays). Also, some people choose to use Sapa town as a base towns and do several day treks in the surrounding areas.

However, the most popular option (and the best one in my opinion) is to do a multi-day trek, where you trek during the day, sleep in a homestay and continue the next day. There are treks as long as you want, but I think a 3 days – 2 nights trek will allow you to experience Sapa to the fullest without taking too many days out of your itinerary.

In order to do this kind of treks, it is best to do it through a trekking company. These are also very varied, but I suggest you do some research and try local businesses that favor the local minorities instead of big companies (mostly based in Hanoi or even abroad) that leave very little for the actual guide. For this, my favourite is Sapa Sisters Trekking Adventures, a wonderful cooperative owned and carried by local Hmong women.

Our experience with Sapa Sisters Trekking Adventures

For our trekking tour we decided to go for Sapa Sisters Trekking Adventures because it is a social enterprise owned by the local guides who belong to the Black Hmong minority and because it is entirely owned and run by women. This, instead of giving your money mostly to a big company (probably based somewhere else), helps the local people get a sustainable income, helping the community to prosper and allowing them to maintain their ways of life.

We arrived to Sapa very early in the morning on a very rainy day. We went to Sapa Sisters office in Sapa town and were allowed to have a warm shower and breakfast, which was very welcome since it was much colder than we expected. We had some time to go shop for some North Face (real? fake? I am not sure, but cheap and good!) before meeting with our guide Gom. The first thing they told me when I booked the 3 days – 2 nights trek a few weeks before was that the itinerary of our trek would not be decided until we talked with our guide. It was true! We sat with Gom and she explained what she had in mind for us, giving alternatives and different options for us to choose.

Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1. Sapa Town – Cat Cat – Y Linh Ho – Lao Chai (lunch) – Ta Van (homestay)

Day 2. Ta Van – Giang Ta Chai – Su Pan – Ban Ho (homestay)

Day 3. Ban Ho – Nam Toong – Ban Ho – Sapa Town

Day 1. Rain and rice terraces

Starting our trek

I should probably start saying that we were a terrible group for a guide to manage. We were 5 people, three in our 20s (one of us with vertigo) and two in their 50s (almost 60s), all of us with different degrees of fitness and trekking experience.

We started trekking in a very rainy, very foggy day, going down hills and fields (going down literally, since it was basically mud, so we fell A LOT). Thankfully some local women followed us and helped some of our team members to go through the hardest passages.

Travel tip: local women often (almost always) follow trekking groups and help people in the hardest parts of their trek. They do this so afterwards you will buy some stuff from them. You are of course not obliged to do so, and you can tell them that you do not want help, since it may be a bit uncomfortable for some to have people following them. Be aware that it is best if you don’t ask your guide to get rid of them, since these women may be people that they know in their community.

After a very rough start, we arrived to a better paved road, which eased our mind a lot. The fog started dissipating and we started seeing what we went there for: the rice terraces!

Lao Chai

After that we had lunch in Gom’s hometown Lao Chai, where our little helpers sold us some stuff and left. This town is a great way to see the lifestyle and crafts of the Black Hmong people.

Up in the rice terraces

In the afternoon, Gom helped us with a different levels by separating our group and sending the less experienced ones with her cousin on an easier road and the the other two went up the rice terraces in a rather difficult “road” (if we can call it that). It was super exhilarating and it required a lot of balance, which I don’t have, which is why I ended up knee-deep in a rice paddie, oops!). This allowed us to see some outstanding views of the rice terraces from the top and cross a bamboo forest.

First homestay

We then reached our homestay in Ta Van still before sunset. The place was amazing, with a very cozy common room, warm showers and western-style toilets (which I didn’t expect) and some amazing views of the valley.

We spent the rest of the evening getting to know the other small groups that were spending the night there and enjoying a homemade meal and some “happy water” (homemade rice liquor) with the guides.

Day 2. Up, up and above

Literally on the road

After breakfast, we continued our route in a more transitable road. I have to say that the morning had no special appeal, since it was a paved road through not so remarkable villages. The only upside is that we saw the children going to school. They were all very friendly and talkative (Vietnamese children are super cute and open!). We had lunch at a shop on the way and then decided to split our group again. Some took a mototaxi through a scenic route to our next homestay while the rest went with Gom into a harder road through the rice paddies. We got to see another hill tribe, the Red Dzao.

Gorgeous terraces in the sky

When we reached the rice terraces I have to say that I didn’t expect such beauty and isolation. We were literally alone, with some of the most amazing views I’ve ever seen in my life!

We got lost!

Going so high only meant one thing, we had to go down! Gom tried to find an easy way down the hills, but it was impossible, so we went literally through the forest and fields in a very steep hill. I am sure that Gom will still deny it, but I am sure she even got lost a few times. Anyways, we had a lot of fun during the afternoon trying to make our way to the homestay in Ban Ho. We also collected some young ferns for dinner!

Heart-warming dinner

We arrived to the homestay and, even though it was perhaps not as pretty as the first one, it felt much more authentic. We only shared the accommodation with a French couple, and the hosts were among the friendliest people we met in Vietnam (and the hostess was a great cook, which was a big plus after a hard day of trekking!).

Day 3. Last views and return to Sapa Town

Waking up to an easy trek

We woke up to free-range fried eggs and made our way to a rice paddy not so far away from the homestay. It was a perfect way to let some of the people in our group that couldn’t experience the rice terraces in the former treks enjoy these amazing views!

We came back for lunch to the same homestay and then got picked up by a van that took us to Sa Pa Town, were we had a shower and took the bus to our next destination.

Our review

Overall, our experience in Sapa was fantastic. Not only we saw some of the most beautiful landscapes you can find in Vietnam, but also we met a lot of people, tourists and locals, and we were able to see, if only a little, the rural way of life in Vietnam and how happy the minorities are with their lifestyle. I only hope that tourism doesn’t affect this area so much that this gets lost in exchange for resorts and spas.

Our guide Gom was the loveliest, funniest and most optimistic person ever. She was also very professional, experienced and extremely skilled at her job. She was able to manage this difficult group that we were and find ways so that everyone could enjoy. We will always cherish this memory as one of the best experiences in Vietnam. Thank you Gom!

I really recommend the trekking tour with Sapa Sisters, not only because of the reasons mentioned above, but also because their guides are really friendly and skilled, and they are able to adapt to any of your needs.

If you want to book a trekking experience with them, you can do so through their website.

Before you go to Sapa

Weather and seasons

As the main activity in Sapa is trekking, the weather can really affect your experience! Seasons are marked in this region of Vietnam, being generally colder than the rest of the country (with an average of 15.4ºC, a maximum of 29.4 and a minimum of 1ºC). Trips can be enjoyed year-round, but winters are cold and this comes with fog, rain and even snow! July and August are the warmest months, while December to Febrary can become harsh winters. Spring and Autumn are mild and nice, with Spring being clearer and Autum offering beautiful foggy landscapes.

The stage of the rice harvest is also important to decide the best time to visit this part of Vietnam. Between March and May the rice grows, offering lush green sceneries. In September-October the rice fields are ripe, offering a dramatic golden color. These are probably the best times to visit Sapa, although we visited in November when the rice had already been harvested and it was still really beautiful (and there are less tourists!).

How to get to Sapa

Most likely you will be traveling to Sapa from Hanoi. Sapa is a bit over 300 km northwest of Hanoi, so expect some transportation time.  There are three main ways to get there: by train, by bus or by private car. The most comfortable is the private car, but it can get pricey. Train and bus are quite affordable, with trains being usually more expensive, longer and harder to sleep in. The bus is, in my opinion, the best option. That being said, if you are 1,92 m like me you will not enjoy a good night sleep in any of these!

Most trekking companies offer help with booking the transportation (often with a fee), but it is not difficult to do it yourself. If you want to do so, you can use the service below:

Closing statement

Sapa was one of the highlights of my trip to Vietnam, not only for having such unique and beautiful landscapes but also because it allows you to get close to different cultures, to some of the friendliest people in the country and to enjoy a bit of fresh air, which is quite in demand in this big and populous country! Also, Gom really won herself a spot in our hearts by being so open and friendly.

As I said, it is very easy to plan the trip yourself using the tips that I have given in this post. However, if you don’t feel like planning it yourself, you can also use some of this packages:

In any case, make sure you include this beautiful region in your itinerary! And if you can, do it with Sapa Sisters. You will not regret is as it will be one of the most genuine experiences in your trip.

If you want to know more about Vietnam, check some of my other posts about my trip or check out my Vietnam itinerary:

15 best things to do in Hanoi, Vietnam

Halong Bay cruise: how to choose the best one

Perfect 3 days Ninh Binh itinerary

What to do in Hoi An: the ancient gem of Vietnam

What to do in Ho Chi Minh City: a quick guide to Saigon

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