What to do in Ninh Binh, Vietnam: the Halong Bay in Land

If someone asked me what was my favourite part of Vietnam, I think I would have to say Ninh Binh. The province of Ninh Binh is a region of Northern Vietnam located in the Red River Delta. This region is famous for its natural attractions. With limestone karst mountains surrounding the rice fields and the river, it is no surprise that it has the nickname of the “Halong in land”. Ninh Binh also boasts cultural landmarks such as the Hoa Lu ancient capital or the Bai Dinh Temple, the largest buddhist complex in all of Vietnam.

The sightseeing is among the most spectacular in the country. Moreover, it has a very laid back atmosphere. Even though it is located close to the capital Hanoi, it has only started to receive attention from tourists in the last years. This means it is still not as crowded as other regions in Vietnam. Also, it is one of the places where we found the most welcoming people and, surprisingly, some of the most delicious food!

This post is part of my 3-week Vietnam itinerary. Check it out in the link below!

→ Ultimate 3 weeks Vietnam Itinerary: North to South

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What to do in Ninh Binh, Vietnam

1. Boat tour in the Red River (Trang An or Tam Coc)

One of the most beautiful things to do in Ninh Binh is a paddle boat tour through the Red River surrounded by stunning rock formations. This was definitely one of the main highlights of my trip to Vietnam. Local women (mostly) lead row boats through the river surrounded by rice paddies and karst landscape, and some even go through caves. There are several options in the area:

Tam Coc

The most popular among tourists is Tam Coc, probably because you can take the boat in the middle of the town. This is a great option when the rice paddies are ripe. In February and March you will see them in a bright green color and May and June show a stunning yellow color. During the ride you will see the rice paddies and go through the three caves that give name to the area.

Travel tip: The price of the visit is 120.000 VDN and the boat tour is 150.000 VDN per person in a 4 people boat.

However, this is a hotspot for scams.  Boat riders will stop in the middle of the river and ask for extra tip in order to continue or someone in the shore may try to make you but food for the rower. Additionally, the landscape is perhaps not as spectacular as Trang An from the river. Especially when there are several other ways to see it, such as a bike ride or from the Mua Caves viewpoint. For these reasons, I recommend to choose Trang An over Tam Coc boat ride, regardless of the season.

Trang An

Trang An is located 11 km from Tam Coc. It has one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the region. Additionally,  it’s much less crowded, cheaper and less “scammy” than its Tam Coc counterpart.

Travel tip: the price is quite steep for a Vietnamese attraction (at 200.000 VDN per person, also in a 4 people boat), but it is well worth the money.

The Trang An ecolodge prides itself for not using any motor boats and preserving the natural and cultural heritage of the area. This beautiful boat ride will take you along karst mountains through different river sections and lagoons with isolated taoist temples. These river sections are connected through caves that go through the mountains. You will be impressed by the ability of the rowers in these narrow and low-ceiling caves!

In our experience, the rowers did not try to scam us at any point. In fact, they had a questionaire in the end in which we had to write if they had asked for a tip or not. Although it seemed a bit too much, it is nice to see some transparency.

2. Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda is a complex of Buddhist temples on Bai Dinh mountain. It is considered the largest Buddhist complex in Vietnam, with 700 hectares. It has become a popular pilgrimage site for Vietnamese people. It has an Old Temple on the hill and a newer part completed in 2010. The highlights of the temples are the Tam Quan Gate, the Bell Tower, Boddhisattva and Buddha Dharma Lord temples, Dien Tam The temple up the hill and the Bao Thap stupa.

Bao Thap is one  of the most spectacular parts of the complex. This giant stupa is the perfect place to find the best view of the complex (the above picture is from the stupa) for only 50.000 VDN (less than 2€). Most people take the car and stay in the main temple complex, so it was absolutely empty when we got there.

Travel tip: they will ask for 800.000 VDN (30€) per person for an electric car tour since the temples are too far away from the entrance (hello? make the entrance closer). In any case we decided to walk, which was free. If you want to fully explore the temples you should reserve half a day.

3. Mua Caves (Hang Mua)

Hang Mua or Mua Caves is probably the most instagrammable site in the whole Ninh Binh Province. In fact, I am sure you have seen on instagram before. Mua Cave is located around 5 km away from Tam Coc village and is an easy bike or scooter ride from town.

The actual cave is located at the foot of the mountain. However, the real heartstopping attraction is at the top of the mountain. To reach it, you have to climb 500 – very steep and uneven – stone steps, but it is absolutely worth it in order to get one of the most stunning views you will ever see. The two viewpoints give you a priviledged panoramic view of Tam Coc, Trang An and Ninh Binh.

Price: 100,000 VDN (4€) + 3,000 VDN to park the bike.

Travel tip: the entrance fee for the Hang Mua area is 100,000 VDN and 3,000 VDN for parking the bike.

4. Bich Dong Pagoda

Bich Dong pagoda is a temple located 2 km from Tam Coc, which makes it a perfect visit during a bike ride. The temple is very beautiful and was one of the biggest surprises for me in the region. The main temple is divided in two levels and you can reach the second one through stairs carved in the mountain.

The best part, however, is a “secret” passage on the left side and behind the temple in the second level. This leads you to another level through a cave with an altar and all the way up the hill, where you get great views of the area.

5. Hoa Lu ancient capital

Hoa Lu was the site of the ancient Vietnamese feudal capital back in the 10th century. King Dinh Tien Hoan decided to settle the capital there because of the portection of the several layers of limestone mountains and the ease of transportation through the Hoang Long river. Today there are only ruins, but the temples dedicated to the kings of old are very well preserved. Also, the gardens with artificial lakes are a good pause from the heat and bustle.

Price: 20,000 VDN (0,75€)

6. Bike around Ninh Binh

One of our favorite things to do around Tam Coc was just taking our bikes and bike around through rice fields and along the river. This is the best way to move around in this area because it gives you time and perspective to enjoy the nature.

You can visit the Van Long Nature Reserve or the Thung Nham Bird Sanctuary. It is also a perfect way to get to the Bich Dong Pagoda or the Mua Caves. In any case, it gives you the chance to get a more local and less touristic experience and see scenes like these:

7. Enjoy traditional homemade local food in one of the restaurants in Ninh Binh

One of the things I enjoyed the most in Ninh Binh was  how delicious the food was! We didn’t expect much food-wise in this region, based on other blogs. However, we were completely surprised by the delicious and cheap homemade meals we got. Have a look at my list of favourite restaurants in Tam Coc. And don’t forget to try the goat (Com dê), the local specialty!

→ Best food in Tam Coc

When to go to Ninh Binh

You can visit Ninh Binh any time of the year. However, May to October the region is hot, humid and with high rainfall, while November to April are cooler and dryer months. That being said, the rainy season is also when the rice paddies will be more beautiful, with vivid green and yellow colours (mostly February to May).

Where to stay in Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh is a big city, capital of the region with the same name, with plenty of accommodation options. That being said, Ninh Binh has absolutely no charm, so I suggest staying in Tam Coc. The town of Tam Coc is quite small and close to most of the attractions in the region. It has seen quite an increase in tourism, which can explain the high density of bars with a more western flare, but it still retains some of the charm of a Vietnamese town, especially outside of the town center. It is also full of nice restaurants and eateries with delicious food.

Booking.com

Budget

If you are in a tight budget, you can stay in Dragon Boat Rock for a quieter stay or Tuan Ngoc Hotel for a more upbeat backpacker feeling.

Mid-range

For a nicer stay, I can only recommend Tam Coc Village Bungalow, a beautiful hotel with individual bamboo bungalows, a nice swimming pool and stunning views to the rice fields and mountains. this is where we chose to stay and we loved it! Also, the family that runs it is absolutely delightful and helpful, they serve a homemade breakfast and bikes are included in the price! Plus, it’s locally owned. Rooms start at around 30€ per night. Another option is the famous Mua Caves Ecolodge, also in the same price range, although it is a bit far from the town.

Luxury

If you want to have full luxury, perhaps Tam Coc is not for you, but you can try Tam Coc Rice Fields Resort or Ninh Binh Hidden Charm  Hotel & Resort.

How to get to Tam Coc

From Hanoi you can reach Ninh Binh by train for only 200,000 VDN (7€) and it will take about 2 and a half hours. Another option is by bus, with prices starting at 70,000 VDN (3€). When you are in Ninh Binh, a short taxi ride will take you to Tam Coc. A more convenient option is to hire a van (starting at 300,000 VDN or 11€) that would leave you directly in town.

If you are going to Tam Coc from other places, like we did (we arrived from Halong Bay), it will be easier to rent a private driver to leave you at your hotel. Regardless of if you are going from Hanoi or other places, you will find your transportation below:

Closing statement

Ninh Binh was one of the biggest surprises of my trip to Vietnam. It is one of the most truly beautiful places I have ever been. The natural landscape is absolutely stunning, the cultural heritage is fantastic, the locals were ridiculously welcoming and the food was some of the best I’ve had in the country. I really encourage you to include Ninh Binh in your Vietnam itinerary.

Read more about Ninh Binh and plan your trip in these posts:

Perfect 3 days Ninh Binh itinerary

Best food in Tam Coc

If you want to know more about Vietnam, check some of my other posts about my trip or check out my Vietnam itinerary:

15 best things to do in Hanoi, Vietnam

Trekking in Sapa with Sapa Sisters

How to choose a cruise for Halong Bay

What to do in Hoi An: the ancient gem of Vietnam

What to do in Ho Chi Minh City: a quick guide to Saigon

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