North of Spain route. Day 4: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and Bilbao

These are the chronicles of my road trip through the north of Spain with my cousins in the Spring Break of 2019. It is a 11 day itinerary that spanned from the French Basque Country to Asturias, including the way from and to Barcelona (where I currently live). On our fourth day we explored Bilbao, the capital city of the Basque Country, and had a little excursion to the beautiful islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and the quaint fishing village of Bermeo.

Our original plan for the 4th day of our trip was to stay in Bilbao and visit the region’s capital exclusively, but due to the heavy rain of the previous day we included the visit to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe planned for the day before.

Day 4: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and Bilbao

1. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe was one of the visits in our trip I was looking forward the most. In part because it was one of the few places that I hadn’t visited before and in part because I am a die hard Game of Thrones fan, if you haven’t already noticed.

Gaztelugatxe is a small islet on the coast of Biscay approximately 1h drive from Bilbao. On top of the island there is the hermitage of San Juan, dedicated to John the Baptist and giving it the name of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, that dates back from the 10th century. The name Gaztelugatxe comes from the Basque words for castle and difficult and you will understand why when you visit!

The hike to the top of the islet of the hermitage takes around 40 minutes if you don’t stop. The initial part of the hike is to go down the cliff to the sea level. On the way you will find a viewpoint so you can see the islet properly and take some old school tourist pictures.

The second part of the hike is to cross the bridge that leads to the islet and climb up the stairs that lead to the hermitage. These stairs were used to film scenes of Dragonstone in Game of Thrones. Have a look at this post for more details:

→ ‘Game of Thrones’ locations that you can visit in Spain

When you reach the top, turn around to get these amazing views!

Travel tip: you are supposed to think of a wish while you climb up the stairs. When you reach the top, ring the bell of the hermitage to have your wish fulfilled!

Fun fact, in the water surounding the islet, there is a submerged figurine of the virgin of Begoña, patron of Biscay, that you can visit if you scuba-dive. It is traditional to throw flowers to the sea at this spot to pay tribute to the virgin.

Travel tip: even though visiting San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is free, make sure you book your tickets in advanced to avoid cues! You can book them online here.

2. Bermeo

We decided to reward ourselves for the hike with a fresh vermouth and some olives in the fishing town of Bermeo. Bermeo is not a big town but it has become the most important fishing port in the Basque Country. One of the most beautiful parts of the city is the old fishing harbor, with narrow houses painted in different colors.

We decided to enjoy the sun in Lamera Park. We sat on the terrace of Andeko (Lope Diaz de Haro Kalea, 13), a really genuine Basque tavern with excellent prices and a grumpy but good-hearted owner.

If you have time, you can explore Bermeo’s old quarter (which is very steep!) to visit the City Hall and the church of Santa María de la Asunción or learn more about the lives of the arrantzales (Basque fishermen) in Torre Ercilla which contains the fihsermen museum.

Travel tip: Bermeo is a good base to visit the Natural Reserve of Urdaibai (mentioned in my previous post) or the pictoresque fishing town of Mundaka.

3. Bilbao

We drove back to Bilbao, the Basque Country’s capital, to have lunch and explore the city a bit more. We had a daily menu deal at Restaurante Kasko (Andra Maria Kalea, 16) and, for only 14€, we got a simple but quality menu with starter, main and dessert, bread, wine and water. I really recommend this place, but make sure you book a table!

After the amount of food we had, we were in need of a coffee, so we crossed the river to get to Bihotz Café (Calle Arechaga, 6), a hipster bar with a homey atmosphere and cheerful hosts that serves arguably the best coffee in town. If you’re not that into coffee they cherry pick local and international craft beer and have a wonderful tea and fresh juice selection.

The rest of the day we decided to just walk around Bilbao and see the most important sites. If I am being honest, after visiting San Sebastián, Bilbao felt a bit like a disappointment. Don’t get me wrong, it has its charms, but it felt like the city was not planned at all and it is not cohesive in any way, styles mixed with no previous thought. This probably has to do with its rapid shift from a heavily industrial city to a more culturally inclined one. That being said, there are some must see’s in the Basque capital.

We started with a stroll around the Casco Viejo (Old Town). Bilbao’s old quarter is quite small, referred by locals as “the Seven Streets“. The narrow streets are pedestrian-only and have become the heart of the city. Stone buildings with painted wooden decorations and local bars full of pintxos make of this area the most lively in the city.

Some of the main sites you can visit in the old quarter are Plaza Nueva, the Cathedral of Santiago, Miguel de Unamuno square or the Basque Museum and the main shopping street Posta Kalea.

We found typical Spanish Easter penance processions, with the typical cloaks and hoods (capirotes) that look so damn scary.

After that we had a walk along the river. This is a nice walk, especially on a sunny day, because you can see the different neighborhoods and how the style of the city changed and evolved.

One of the first sights when walking along the river from the old quarter is Mercado de la Ribera, Europe’s largest covered market and awarded in 1990 by the Guinness Book of Records as the most complete market in the world. today you can sample some products in food stalls besides the purchase of produce.

Other sights along the river promenade are the St. Anton church, Arriaga Theater, Bilbao’s municipality and the Zubizuri Bridge.

Our last stop was the city’s most famous building and symbol: the Guggenheim Museum. The Guggenheim is a museum of modern and contemporary art designed by architect Frank Gehry and has been critically acclaimed by critics, academics and the general public. You can check the permanent and visiting exhibitions and buy your tickets here.

Besides the building itself and the museum inside, the Guggenheim offers several landmarks, such as the giant steel spider sculpture Maman by Louise Bourgeois, the Tall Tree & The Eye by Anish Kapoor or the floral dog Puppy by Jeff Koons.

The area where the Guggenheim is located was completely rebuilt for that purpose, and now features beautiful walks along the river with gardens. If you want to take a beautiful picture of the building, climb up the La Salve bridge located next to the museum. It is probably the ugliest bridge I have ever seen, but the views are spectacular!

How to get to Bilbao

While this post is part of a road trip through the North of Spain and we got there by car, you may want to travel directly here. In that case, you can fly to Bilbao’s international airport from many destinations.

Alternatively you can get there from many other cities in the country using Spain’s well developed train system or intercity buses:

Where to stay in Bilbao

Budget

If you want to stay in the middle of the action at an affordable price, Pil Pil Hostel is for you, nestled in the Old Town surrounded by historical sites. Alternatively, Iturrienea Ostatua offers cozy rooms at an affordable price, with charming decor and welcoming staff. If you want to stay near the Guggenheim Museum, the best option for low budgets is Bcool Bilbao Hotel, which offers a stylish atmosphere despite its low price.

Midrange

If you’re willing to pay a bit more for comfort, I suggest you check out Hotel Ercilla, a very central hotel with stylish room and close to everything! Casual Bilbao Gurea is located in the Old Town and offers a trendy vibe and an artistic flair, with excellent value for the price. If you prefer to stay in tried and tested hotels, the Hotel Meliá Bilbao offers a sofisticated vibe for a surprisingly affodable price. It has elegant rooms, spa facilities and it’s located very close to the Guggenheim Museum.

Luxury

If you’d like to give yourself a treat and stay in a luxurious accommodation, the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao is the epitome of luxury in the city. With amazing views of the Guggenheim Museum, a sleek design and a Michelin-starred restaurants, it is one of the best indulgences you can have in Bilbao! The Hotel Carlton does not fall behind. Located in a historic landmark, the Carlton is a timeless luxury, elegant rooms and gourmet dining, as well as a priviledged location. Lastly, blending modern luxury and traditional charm, Vincci Consulado de Bilbao is a perfect mix of modern five-star hotels without losing the old school elegance. It has a very central location and a great rooftop terrace.

Booking.com

Closing statement

This is only the fourth day in our 10-day road trip through the north of Spain. Make sure you stay tuned for new and exciting posts about our journey.

Previous post: North of Spain route. Day 3: Basque coast

Next post: North of Spain route. Day 5: towns of Cantabria

Go to route: North of Spain route: Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias

Meanwhile, you can read more about other destinations in Spain in some of our posts (check them out and you will find many subposts linked to them):

→ Top 10 things to do in Barcelona

→ ‘Game of Thrones’ locations that you can visit in Spain