Discovering the 17 islands National Park in Riung: a hidden paradise in Flores, Indonesia

Discovering the 17 islands National Park in Riung: a hidden paradise in Flores, Indonesia

Riung is a stop that many people skip in their Flores itinerary. This is mostly because the detour is quite big regardless if you’re coming from Bajawa or Moni. Also, the road used to be in a very bad condition (not anymore!). However, I cannot be happier that we decided to include it in our Flores itinerary! Riung is home to the 17 islands National Park (Taman Wisata Alam Laut 17 Pulau Riung). This stunning archipelago boasts pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a rich marine life. If you’re looking for a unique and off-the-beaten-path destination in Indonesia, the 17 Islands National Park in Riung, Flores is an absolute must-visit, especially for snorkeling fans.

There is not much more to do in Riung other than explore its 17 islands marine park. However, it is a quaint little town with very friendly locals and some of the best food that you’ll find in Flores. That is why I suggest that you spend 2 nights in Riung, using your full day in between for the island hopping boat tour, and the rest of your time just exploring the town and tasting some of the freshest seafood in Indonesia. This post is part of a series from our perfect 10-days Flores itinerary. Check it out!

Perfect 10 days Flores itinerary in Indonesia

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Island hopping day tour in 17 Islands National Park in Riung

As the main attraction in town, save one full day to explore the 17 Islands National Park with an island hopping boat tour. We rented a boat and hired its captain Anto (contact below) and agreed to do 5 stops in several islands and reefs, including a delicious fish BBQ at the beach! We entered the park through the harbor and signed our names and realized that we were THE ONLY ONES in the whole park (and it remained that way for the rest of the day). Here is our island hopping tour at the 17 Islands National Park in Riung, Flores:

17 islands Stop 1. The flying fox island

One of the highlights of my trip was Pulau Ontoloe, an island that is home to thousands of fruit bats. As we approached the island, the sound of the bats’ screeches echoed throughout the boat. We then got to witness these creatures flying above us in their natural habitat, which was truly an unforgettable experience. You can see in the pictures below what a spectacle it was!

17 islands Stop 2. Snorkeling in the reef

We also snorkeled at a nearby reef, which was teaming with colorful fish and vibrant coral formations. The visibility was crystal clear, allowing us to see the marine life in all its glory. Although in some areas the coral was pretty bleached, new coral formations seemed to show that the reef is recovering (perhaps from less traffic during Covid-19 or because the locals are more aware of sustainable tourism).

Stop 3. A fish BBQ in a deserted island

We then disembarked at Tiga island, a small island with a gorgeous white sand beach. We walked along the beach and agreed that Tiga island is like THE archetype of a paradise beach. When then started snorkeling again and we spotted a lionfish! (my favourite fish) and some sea horses.

When we finished, a delicious fish BBQ was waiting for us at the beach. Having some delicious fresh seafood in a deserted island paradise just by ourselves was a highlight of our trip.

17 islands Stop 4. Another snorkeling spot

We also visited Nunsa Bampa (also known as Tembang Island), where we did a bit more snorkeling. I have never in my life seen so many starfish! There were two kinds, one with soft skin and bright blue and one with horned orange skin. There were of course many more fish and other animals.

17 islands Stop 5. Taking in the views of the 17 islands in Riung

Our last stop was Nunsa Rutong, an island that has a hill that you can climb and take in the views of the whole marine park. The view of thee blue and turquoise waters and the mountains of Flores in the background was breathtaking. You can also see that we were the only ones in the park that day!

Also, if you visit Nunsa Rutong at low tide, you’ll see an arm of land emerge from the water, uniting the island with the neighboring Nunsa Baka and the tiny Nunsa Meja. After admiring the views, we snorkeled a bit more and decided to head back to the harbor, finishing our island hopping tour and went for a beer with our captain Anto at Cafe del Mar.

How to arrange a boat tour for 17 islands national park

To arrange your island hopping tour, you have several options:

• Walk to the pier and ask any of the captains to take you. This option may be a bit more expensive but will work best for last minute planners.
• Arrange a boat tour through your accommodation. Most guesthouses will be able to organize an island hopping tour for you.
• Contact the captains in advance to book your tour. Here are a few contact numbers from boat captains that can arrange the tour with you. I suggest you contact them in advance.
  • Anto (+62 81237550811) was the guy we went with. He is a really cool guy! We met at Café del Mar to have a beer and discuss the trip. We were very happy with our island hopping day!
  • ICHA (+62 81239260555) was recommended to us by another traveler but was already booked for the day.
  • Lucky (or Luki) (+62 81233528125) was recommended to us by the owner of our guesthouse, but we had already arranged our tour.

Travel tip: make sure it is clear what is included and what not in the trip before you agree to a price. Things like snorkeling equipment, entrance fee to the national park, food, etc. Also, do not be afraid to haggle for the price. It is customary.

How to get to Riung

Getting to Flores

To get to Riung you’ll have to get to the island of Flores. The closest airport to Riung is the one in Bajawa, although you are more likely to find flights from other parts of Indonesia to Ende, Labuan Bajo or Maumere.

If you’re going to Riung as part of a Flores itinerary, you’re probably coming from either Bajawa or Moni.

Getting to Riung from Bajawa

From Bajawa, the public bus should cost 70k IDR (4.3€) and take around 4 hours (although this varies wildly depending on the driver and passengers). If you hire a private car, it should cost around 500k IDR (31€) and take only 2 hours.

Getting to Riung from Moni (Ende)

If you’re coming from Moni, I’m afraid there is no direct public transportation to Riung. Instead, you’ll have to make it to Ende, either on the public bus (20k IDR, 1.2€), or with a private car that should cost around 200k IDR (12€). This first part of the journey should take 1.5 hours with the car, and an undetermined amount of time with the bus, since they are wildly unreliable.

From Ende, there is a daily bus to Riung at 2 pm that costs 50k IDR (3€) and takes 4 hours.

Travel tip: there is a common scam at the Ende bus station with locals telling you there is no bus anymore and offering to take you there themselves (for a much higher rate than they should).

Hiring a driver for the entirety of your trip in Flores

While hiring a driver for your trip in Flores is much more expensive than taking the public buses, it really pays off in terms of comfort and saves a lot of time. Not only that, but you’ll also be able to see much more since you’ll have freedom of movement in each of your stops as well as in between. To give you an example, check out the Blue Stone Beach that we saw on our way from Moni to Riung:

We had a great time with our driver Gusti in our Flores trip. You can contact him through WhatsApp and get a quote in this number +62 82147244300. He is an excellent driver and, even though he will tell you he’s not a guide, he is very knowledgeable and will recommend you places to visit and help you communicate with the locals.

Alternatively, if you’d like a driver and a guide, you can contact Sipri at sipri.muda@gmail.com.

Where to stay in Riung

Riung is not a big enough village to discuss which areas are best. Also, the range of price in this town is pretty narrow, so it doesn’t really make a lot of sense to divide this post in budget sections, but I’ll do it based on the prices of the area.

Booking.com

Budget

If you’re saving every penny, the cheapest option in town is Sangrila Mentos Riung, a simple guesthouse with colorful double rooms with ensuite bathroom. Rooms start at 200k IDR (12€) with breakfast.

Mid-range

If you can spend a bit more, I can honestly recommend Riung Guesthouse, the guesthouse where we stayed. It has big very clean air-conditioned rooms also with ensuite bathroom and the owner, Paul, is very friendly and really helpful in anything you may need (including booking your island hopping tour). We paid 320k IDR (20€) per night for a double room and breakfast, as well as unlimited coffee. At a similar price you can find Bintang Wisata Riung. I’ve heard good things about it but I have never stayed there.

Splurge? (definitely not luxury)

Lastly, Cafe del Mar has opened a guesthouse since I was there called Del Mar Homestay, which is notably more expensive than the rest at 650k IDR (40€) per night. The rooms don’t seem to be better than the ones we stayed in Riung Guesthouse, but the outdoor area looks great and it is really close to the pier to the 17 islands National Park so it is very convenient. If money is not an issue, this could be your best pick.

Where to eat in Riung

Riung was one of the places where we enjoyed the food most both in Flores and in Indonesia as a whole. With Indonesian cuisine being largely based on rice and chicken, it was refreshing to add the variety of fresh seafood to the mix!

Our favourite restaurant was Rutong Cafe N Resto. Back then it didn’t have a name yet because we went to the opening! This little eatery specializes in grilled fish, and we had a MASSIVE delicious grilled fish for only 75k IDR (4,6€), from which 3 people ate. We had a really good time as we had dinner with the owner, Simon, the owner of our guesthouse, Paul, and our driver, Gusti. I really recommend you give it a visit if you like grilled fish.

Another restaurant I can really recommend is Pato Resto. This little cute eatery focuses again on fish, adding a little variety on the way they prepare it. Their sweet & sour fish was absolutely delicious! And the portions are very generous. If you’re not a fish person, they also offer many other options, including Indonesian classics like nasi goreng (which by the way, it was one of the best ones I had). Another great option is Cafe del Mar. The restaurant has a really nice atmosphere and they offer nice food that they cook that day (not menu, catch of the day style). I have also heard nice things about Cafe Rico Rico. Although the food is perhaps not as high standards as the other places I mentioned, it seems to be the place to be for a drink by the sea after an island hopping tour.

Additional tips for Riung, Flores

Bring enough cash

There is one ATM in Riung, so you should be able to withdraw money. However, I recommend that you bring enough cash for your stay in Riung, since the ATM empties some times and the nearest cities are quite far away.

Skip if you only want to scuba dive

Although Riung seems like an obvious choice for scuba divers, there is currently no diving center in town. Several attempts to start one have been made but no success so far. If scuba diving is a must for you, I suggest you skip Riung from your itinerary. That being said, snorkeling in Riung is just great and there are very few places where you can do so completely alone, so if you also enjoy snorkeling, Riung is a perfect spot.

Preserve the reef at 17 islands national park

I will try not to be too preachy, but reefs are very delicate ecosystems and us visitors often damage them without knowing. There are a few easy things that you can do to contribute to their preservations:

• Take everything you bring with you to the tour back with you when you finish (aka no littering).
• Be careful in the boat as the wind can take plastics and papers away. Secure everything before starting.
• Use reef safe sunscreen. There is nothing written about what is reef safe, but as a rule of thumb, avoid sunscreens that contain oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, parabens, and triclosan. To make it easier, use mineral sunscreens (ideally with zinc oxide since it protects from most UV rays).
• Do NOT touch the corals (that includes stepping on it, even if it’s to adjust your goggles).
• Also, do NOT touch the starfish. It is very tempting, but they breath through fragile membranes in their skin that can be damaged by sunscreen or the oils in our fingers, and taking them out of the water is also not good.
• Locals are now beginning to move towards more sustainable ways, but many captains still have practices that can damage the reefs. If you see any, do not be shy to tell them you would prefer if they did it some other way (e.g. if they drop the anchor directly on the coral).

Closing statement

The 17 Islands National Park in Riung, Flores is a paradise that offers something for everyone. Whether you’re an adventure seeker or simply looking to unwind and connect with nature, this destination will not disappoint. Also, being able to explore so many deserted island and snorkel in crystal clear waters completely by ourselves was out of this world. Not to mention the sheer luxury of having a fish BBQ in a beach just for yourself in an island just for yourself.

If you’re planning a trip to Flores, check out this amazing itinerary and a few posts about the region:

Perfect 10 days Flores itinerary in Indonesia

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