North of Spain itinerary. Day 3: Basque Coast

These are the chronicles of my road trip through the north of Spain with my cousins in the Spring Break of 2019. It is a 11 day itinerary that spanned from the French Basque Country to Asturias, including the way from and to Barcelona (where I currently live). On our third day, we explored the beautiful Basque Coast between San Sebastián and Bilbao, seeing some of the most beautiful beaches and cliffs which were home to iconic scenes in Game of Thrones.

This was my road trip team (I’m the one on the front left)

Day 3: Basque Coast

1. Orio

Our first stop after leaving San Sebastián was the small fishing town of Orio. It is mostly known because of being the birthplace of many Basque artists and for their rowing tradition, as well as for being in the coastal path of Camino de Santiago.

I had read a bit about Orio and many blogs said that its Old Town (Goiko Kale) was charming. To be honest, I didn’t see much charm in it, despite some parts being beautiful. We didn’t stay long and, in my opinion, this is a stop that can be skipped.

The narrow streets of Orio

2. Zumaia

Our next stop was the beach town of Zumaia. Zumaia is one of the three cuty-cluster of Zarautz-Getaria-Zumaia, very famous nationally and internationally by surfers. If you are mostly interested in surf, I recommend that you stop in Zarautz, the surfer’s capital in the Basque country. If you are more interested in breathtaking landscapes, then you should head to Zumaia.

The highlight of this town is Itzurun beach, the main beach of the city, which is flanked by incredibly beautiful cliffs made of vertical strata that create a magical landscape. Green hills, sharp cliffs and a vigorous sea make of this one of our favourite stops of the trip.

The beautiful beach of Itzurun in Zumaia

The strength of the Cantabrian sea makes it a great surfing spot

As I mentioned, the most surprising feature of this beach (and extended to the coast in this area) is the strange rock formations. The beauty of this strange landscape was probably the reason why this beach was used in the filming of some scenes in Game of Thrones. You can find our which in our dedicated post (procede with caution, spoilers may be included in the link):

→ ‘Game of Thrones’ locations that you can visit in Spain

There is a “secret” path directly at the entrance to the beach. Before you reach the main terrace in front of the beach, you will find a little trail on the grass to the right. If you climb up the hill you will end up at the top of the cliff. From there you will have fantastic panoramic views of the beach and the surrounding coast, and absolutely no tourists (at least in our experience).

The view from the top of the cliff was breathtaking

That’s me being a happy GoT fan

Here’s a little map to show you how to get there. It seems obvious on the map but it’s not so apparent in real life:

Also of interest, on top of one of the cliffs facing Itzurun beach you can find a chapel called Ermita de San Telmo. The chapel itself is not particularly impressive, but it looks spectacular with the view behind it. This site was used for filming the famous Spanish movie Ocho apellidos vascos (terribly translated to “Spanish affair”). If you are familiar with regional differences in Spain it is quite entertaining. You can find it on Netflix.

Ermita de San Telmo on top of the cliff at Itzurun beach

Next to the chapel you can follow the little path to the edge of the next cliff, which has another great viewpoint.

Although Itzurun beach is the most spectacular feature of Zumaia, you can explore the town a bit if you have time. Of interest are the church of San Pedro Apostol, a XIII century Gothic church that looks like a fortress, as well as some of the beautiful palaces and squares in the old quarter. You can explore the harbor and the beach of Santiago, more suited for sunbathing.

Travel tip: if you like hiking, there is a magnific trail called flysch trail from Itzurun beach to the neighboring town of Deba to enjoy the magical Basque Coast. It has amazing views and you get to visit beautiful isolated beaches. Make sure you check the state of the sea because you won’t be able to access some of the beaches with high tide!

3. Lekeitio

Our lunch stop was the fishing town of Lekeitio. Lekeitio was a famous village in the Basque Coast during centuries for its whalers but when the whales became endangered they shifted their fishing activities towards other seafood, which has integrated deeply into their gastronomy. Now they are known for their high quality anchovies! Lekeitio also has fantastic beaches and a colorful harbor that is lined with restaurants, as well as a stunning Gothic basílica of Asunción de Nuestra Señora.

The fishing harbor of Lekeitio and the Gothic church at the end

The harbor of Lekeitio is lined with restaurants that serve excellent fresh seafood

The colorful houses of the harbor

We originally planned to have lunch at a restaurant called Oskarbi by recommendation from other bloggers. However, the waiter that “greeted” us was rude and we decided to move somewhere else. That being said, the food looked amazing and I don’t want to judge an establishment because of a rude waiter. We had lunch at Antzarrak, a restaurant in the same harbor that is specialized in fish. We had a fantastic lunch and the waitress was as Basque as it gets and super helpful with recommendations on places to visit and to eat in our route through the Basque Country.

4. Elantxobe

We next moved to Elantxobe, a tiny fishing village built on a steep cliff. This is a rilly quirky town in the Basque Coast. The town consists of a tiny fishing harbor and a few very packed houses due to the steepness of the town. There is a very small “square” that has a rotating platform that allows the big vehicles to turn.

Fun fact, Elantxobe reminds of the Catalan colloquial expression “El antxove”, “estar antxovats”, which means to be very packed in a small space. No kidding!

The quirky tiny town of Elantxobe

5. Urdaibai biosferako erreserba

Due to the heavy rain we couldn’t follow our plans to visit the Biosphere Reserve of Urdaibai. It is an estuary made of small streams that merge into a great salt marsh surrounded by cliffs. The surrounding area is occupied by meadowlands and oak groves, and it is home to 245 species of birds. The area also contains remnants of Prehistoric, Roman and Medieval remains.

The estuary of Urdaibai

6. Bilbao

Our final stop of the day was Bilbao, the capital of the Basque country. I will write about Bilbao on our next post.

The iconic Guggenheim museum of Bilbao

In Bilbao we stayed in Apartamentos Atxuri. They were not beautiful nor particularly clean, but they were very affordable and the location was convenient.

How to get to Bilbao

While this post is part of a road trip through the North of Spain and we got there by car, you may want to travel directly here. In that case, you can fly to Bilbao’s international airport from many destinations.

Alternatively you can get there from many other cities in the country using Spain’s well developed train system or intercity buses:

Where to stay in Bilbao

Budget

If you want to stay in the middle of the action at an affordable price, Pil Pil Hostel is for you, nestled in the Old Town surrounded by historical sites. Alternatively, Iturrienea Ostatua offers cozy rooms at an affordable price, with charming decor and welcoming staff. If you want to stay near the Guggenheim Museum, the best option for low budgets is Bcool Bilbao Hotel, which offers a stylish atmosphere despite its low price.

Midrange

If you’re willing to pay a bit more for comfort, I suggest you check out Hotel Ercilla, a very central hotel with stylish room and close to everything! Casual Bilbao Gurea is located in the Old Town and offers a trendy vibe and an artistic flair, with excellent value for the price. If you prefer to stay in tried and tested hotels, the Hotel Meliá Bilbao offers a sofisticated vibe for a surprisingly affodable price. It has elegant rooms, spa facilities and it’s located very close to the Guggenheim Museum.

Luxury

If you’d like to give yourself a treat and stay in a luxurious accommodation, the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao is the epitome of luxury in the city. With amazing views of the Guggenheim Museum, a sleek design and a Michelin-starred restaurants, it is one of the best indulgences you can have in Bilbao! The Hotel Carlton does not fall behind. Located in a historic landmark, the Carlton is a timeless luxury, elegant rooms and gourmet dining, as well as a priviledged location. Lastly, blending modern luxury and traditional charm, Vincci Consulado de Bilbao is a perfect mix of modern five-star hotels without losing the old school elegance. It has a very central location and a great rooftop terrace.

Booking.com

Closing statement

This is only the third day in our 10-day road trip through the north of Spain. Make sure you stay tuned for new and exciting posts about our journey.

Previous post: North of Spain route. Day 2: San Sebastián

Next post: North of Spain route. Day 4: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and Bilbao

Go to route: North of Spain route: Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias

Meanwhile, you can read more about other destinations in Spain in some of our posts (check them out and you will find many subposts linked to them):

→ Top 10 things to do in Barcelona

→ ‘Game of Thrones’ locations that you can visit in Spain