Where to eat in Pai, Thailand
Pai is a small mountain village in the North of Thailand. Due to Pai’s increasing popularity and an unfortunate concentration of “tourism of the bad kind”, most of the once hidden mountain village now caters to tourists. This measn that choosing where to eat in Pai can be tricky if you like to immerse in the local culture. That being said, there are still a few authentic places in which to try local food. The local food in Pai is a mix between Northern Thai (Lanna) and Shan, coming from the neighbouring Myanmar. The Northern Thai influence means that there is a lot of use of fresh herbs, including unusual plants and flowers, and strong focus on quality meats. The Shan influence brings thick and oily curries, thought to be the origin of the popular noodle dish khao soi. Here are a few of my favourite restaurants in Pai!
Don’t forget to check out my main post about Pai: READ: What to do in Pai, Thailand
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Best Places to Eat in Pai: Local Food
1. Pai Walking Street
Pai Walking Street is no more than one of the main streets in the center of Pai (Chai Songkram Rd.) that stops traffic at night and fills up with stalls selling souvenirs, crafts and, most importantly, street food. Now, don’t get me wrong. The street food available in this street food market is not the best quality and not the most authentic, but it is fun to just walk around and pick and choose the best Thai snacks to taste! Anything from BBQ skewers, pad thai or even sushi can be found on this market!
READ: Pai Walking Street
Kai Jeaw Bar
While many of the stalls in the Pai Walking Street are a bit mediocre, some really stand out. One of them is Kai Jeaw Bar, which was our frequent dinner spot during our stay in Pai. While it may not be exactly a stall, it has a similar feel. They serve nice renditions of Thai staples like Pad Thai, Pad Kra Pao and Pad See Ew.
P’lai Rice Soup @ Pai
P’lai Rice Soup @ Pai is a perfect spot for a filling breakfast in Pai. They serve delicious congee (rice porridge) with an assortment of toppings, as well as patongo (deep-fried bread sticks, a version of churros). You should go there early, as they open at sunrise and close around 8-9am.
2. Khaosoi Zister’s
The quintessential Northern Thai food is Khao Soi, a chicken curry noodle soup that is extremely popular for locals and tourists alike. There is no better place to try our Khao Soi than Khaosoi Zister’s, a nice restaurant a bit removed from the center offering fantastic bowls of this delicacy. The noodles are springy, the broth is flavourful and the chicken is tender. What more can you ask for? Also, the establishment is quite nice itself, and they offer other foods like delicious pork noodle soup or spring rolls.
3. Two Sisters Restaurant
When I visited Myanmar I fell in love with their homey cooking. Right now it’s quite difficult to visit Myanmar due to its political situation, but if you find yourself in Pai, you’ll be able to taste their delicious food at Two Sisters Restaurant. Check out the delicious house special beef curry, a slow-cooked beef stew with a flavourful mix of Indian and Thai spices. Another option is one of my favourites: pumpkin curry!
4. Charlie&lek
Charlie&lek is a fantastic place to check out fantastic Thai food both local and from other regions. It also has fantastic prices and a great service and presentation of the dishes. The papaya Pad Thai is a fantastic idea and their fresh spring rolls were a sight to endure the heat of the area!5. Pai Noodles and More
Pai Noodles and More is an unassuming eatery serving a fantastic bowl of Nam Tok noodles, a spicy meat broth with pig’s blood, served with rice noodles, slices of beef or pork, liver, bean sprouts and fishballs. It is very similar (or perhaps the same) as the boat noodles in Ayutthaya. I understand that this dish may not be for everyone (although I love it and you should try it), but they have other options in their menu (hence the name) such as chicken rice and tom yum.
7. Jomyoot Chicken Rice and Braised Pork
Speaking of chicken rice, one of my favourite restaurants in all of Pai specializes in this dish. Jomyoot is an outdoors restaurant offering a delicious rendition of chicken rice and braised pork. The chicken is tender and jelly, while the pork is crispy and fatty and the rice is really fragrant. All of this makes for the perfect bite!
8. Nong Nung Restaurant Thai Food
Nong Nung is a small unassuming eatery serving a wide array of traditional Thai dishes with special emphasis on stir fries. They prepare a yummy version of Pad See Ew, as well as many other dishes including Thai salads, soups, Pad Kra Pao, and much more! It is close to the center but hidden enough to not be crowded by tourists, so it’s a great place if you want to try local food for cheap.
9. Khun Si
Khun Si is a food stall near the main arteries in Pai that serves a few key dishes of Thai cuisine. Some of their best are Pad Kra Pao (Holy Basil stir fries) as well as the refreshing papaya salad. It doesn’t look like much from the outside but you can have a fantastic meal for very little money.10. Na’s Kitchen
Na’s Kitchen is another authentic and affordable Thai restaurant. One of the most popular dishes is the sweet & sour fish, but they also make a great massaman curry and green curry! And wrap up your meal with a delicious mango sticky rice. I recommend that you visit early, since it can get packed with tourists (yes, it is not a hidden gem anymore I am affraid, but the food is still good). In any case, it is worth the wait, since the queue goes quite fast.11. Joy’s Place
If you’re looking for a quick, unassuming, authentic Thai meal you can visit Joy’s Place. This tiny stall has a short menu with delicious options made on the spot. All dishes are 40 THB (1€) or less, and they are relatively simple, but delicious and packed with flavour. This establishment does not have a bathroom.Best Places to Eat in Pai: international food
12. The Pedlar
If you’re in search for a good Western café vibe, Pai has no shortage of it, but my favourite was The Pedlar. With a very good coffee and some amazing options for a mid-afternoon snack, it’s a perfect place to rest from the heat, meet with some friends or work on your laptop. Do not miss out on their delicious gluten-free brownie. One of the best I’ve ever had!
13. Om Garden Cafe
If you’re on the health kick, Om Garden Cafe is the place to be. While not being a strict vegetarian eatery, their food clearly revolves around vegetables and many of their dishes are in fact vegetarian. They also serve great smoothies to enjoy the tranquil atmosphere of the garden. Last but not least, they serve a pretty nice cup of coffee! It’s a great place to eat fresh fruits and vegetables to compensate for the (likely) heavy eating you’ve been doing in Thailand.
14. BeBe Spice Indian Restaurant
You’re in the mood for a different kind of spicy? Perhaps BeBe Spice Indian Restaurant can be the answer to your prayers. Located a short walk from the walking street, this homey restaurants serves delicious Indian food. The portions are on the smaller side for the price, but it compensates on how delicately executed their recipes are. Speaking of, they also carry a cooking class, although strangely they teach Thai cooking instead of Indian (what’s up with that?). This is by no means a “local” spot. It is aimed at tourists, but it is really enjoyable.15. Nigiri
If you’re missing some Japanese food during your trip, the best place to visit is Nigiri. This small restaurant is a bit removed from the center and offers a fantastic offer centred around (you guessed it) nigiris. The price is higher than Pai’s average, but for a reason, since the food is fresh and good quality. You can order a la carte, but I suggest you go with the omakase option and leave it for the chef to decide!
16. Jaey Cafe
Jaey Café is definitely removed from the center, but it is one of the cafés with the best views around Pai! This café is located in the Kho Ku So Bomboo Bridge and offers hammocks (more like nets) with views to the gorgeous rice fields around. They have fantastic coffee, but it doesn’t stop there! They also serve fantastic Thai food (especially the spring rolls) and smoothies.
READ: Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge17. Noodle Soup House @ Ban Jabo
Speaking of good views, you’ll get the best one in the area at Noodle Soup House, in the village of Ban Jabo. It is quite far away from Pai, a bit over an hour drive, but it’s definitely worth it! This noodle house not only has delicious meatball noodles as well as vegetarian options. It is a popular spot, so it may be crowded, but it is worth it for the views. READ: Ban Jabo ViewpointView this post on Instagram
Map of Where to Eat in Pai, Thailand
How to get to Pai, Thailand
Coming from Chiang Mai
To get to Pai, you’ll need to get to Northern Thailand, with the most abundant options in Chaing Mai. You can travel to Chaing Mai easily and cheaply by bus or train, since it’s very well connected with other nearby cities and with the capital, Bangkok. Don’t forget that, as Thailand’s second largest city, Chiang Mai has an international airport with direct flights from Bangkok, other cities and islands in Thailand, and even other cities worldwide-wide like Singapore or Dubai.
Once you’re in Chiang Mai, you can get to Pai by taking a direct van from Chang Phueak Bus Terminal. You can buy your tickets directly at the station. However, since Pai is an increasingly popular tourist destination and the vans have few seats, they are filled quickly. Avoid staying behind by booking your tickets in advance below:
The Mae Hong Son loop
Pai is located 130 km northwest of Chiang Mai and it is part of the Mae Hong Son loop that connects Chiang Mai – Pai – Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang. Although perhaps not as jaw-dropping as its counterpart in Vietnam, the Ha Giang loop, it is still a fantastic motorbike route that will bring you closer to the wonders of the northern mountains in Thailand and immers yourself with the hill tribes, hot springs and beautiful natural parks. To explore this region through the Mae Hong Son loop, I still would suggest that you start it in Chiang Mai, since it has the most transportation options, but you can really start anywhere! Just rent a motorbike and pick a direction for this loop that can take anything from 3-4 days to weeks, depending on how much you wish to explore.
How to move around in Pai, Thailand
Moving around in Pai (village) is easy, since it’s small enough to walk everywhere in town. To visit sites outside of the village (and you should) the only good option is to rent a motorbike. This is a perfect way to explore the countryside, since there is very little traffic. Some of the roads are not perfectly paved, so beware if you’re not very used to drive a motorbike. There are plenty of bike shops around to rent motorbikes for a very affordable price.
Travel tip: make sure to take pictures of your motorbike when you pick it up to avoid being charged for reparations of scratches that were already there!
If you’re not confortable driving, your best choice is to join a tour, which can take you to many of the places on this list!
Where to stay in Pai, Thailand
Choosing where to stay in Pai is easy, since the village is quite small. If you want to be close to the action, stay along the Walking Street. This is where most upscale and boutique hotels are. In my opinion, the best area is below the central quarter. The whole region between Rat Damrong Rd and the football field. Here you’ll still be at walking distance from the central area but will avoid the noise of the party goers at night! If you want something more connected to nature, there are plenty of options outside of town but still close enough to get there in a quick bike ride.
Budget
One of the very best places to stay in Pai is Pai Country Hut, a beautiful and unassuming guest house that offers bungalows on a budget. Each bungalow has a terrace with a hammock, which is exactly whay you need to unwind after a day of exploring the region. It is also very well located. A similar option would be Pai Homey. If you’re really on a tight budget, then you should choose one of the many hostels in town. If you’re looking for a more social experience, check out Yor Song Hostel, a cute hostel in the northern part of town that also serves delicious food! Keep in mind that you’ll need to walk a bit more from these accommodations to the center. If you’re a group of 6 people, nothing will ever be cheaper than renting a house at Chill In Pai, a cottage hotel that rents out basic but comfortable 6-bed houses with a private bathroom for only 6€! (that’s 1€ per person per night people).View this post on Instagram
Mid-range
We had a perfect stay at Serene Resort. It is a quiet and beautiful homestay with nice bungalows and a beautiful lush garden with a pool. You will be within walking distance to everything but will be able to enjoy the peace. A similar option with a more hippie vibe is The Sylvana Pai, located just one street from the Walking Street and next to the river. For those that want luxury without breaking the bank in a more isolated location, your best choice is Puripai Villa, one of the most beautiful hotels in the area for a very reasonable price. An even cheaper alternative is Kuad Khon Thoe Pai Cottage, offering colorful cottages with bathroom and a terrace and full access to the swimming pool, located close to the Pai Canyon.
Our garden @ Serene Resort
Luxury
If you’re looking for the best of the best, then you should book a room at Reverie Siam. This is probably the best hotel in town. It has an on point decor that screams class and comfort without being too much in your face. It also allows for a local feel within the luxury, which I really appreciate. Reverie Siam has fantastic rooms and a great outdoors area with a gorgeous swimming pool. If you’re more into modern decor and the feeling of a luxurious resort, a great alternative is Family House Zen Boutique Resort.
For those more into coziness (hygge in Scandinavia!) and a nature setting, look no further and book The Farmhouse at Pai. It is a new beautiful cottage filled with white decor and comfort in the countryside. The cottages are surrounded by flower fields and cute little farm animals (that you don’t have to tend to but can pet!). It’s a really special stay in Pai.
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Closing statement
As you can see, even though Pai has definitely turned to cater tourism, there are still plenty of options for those who seek a more local experience. I hope you can use this guide to choose the restaurants, eateries and stalls you’ll eat when you’re thinking where to eat in Pai. Do not forget to read my guide to Pai if you’re traveling to the region!
If you are visiting Thailand, you’ll probably find these posts useful:Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Top 12 Must-Do Activities
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