What to do in Berlanga de Duero in Soria, Spain

This is the town that gives name to the region and it is considered one of the most beautiful towns in the province. The town is basically a castle on top of a hill, which was originally Arabic, even though the structure was later modified by the Christians during the reconquest. In the XVI century, worried about a possible war with the French, the governing Tovar family decided to radically improve the town’s defences, which led to the magnificent fortifications that now surround the town.

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Things to see in Berlanga de Duero

• The town walls: as mentioned before, one of the most impressive architectural features of the town is its imposing defensive wall.
• The Castle of Berlanga de Duero: with islamic origins, the current fortress is divided into a castle from the XV century and an artillery fortress built in the XVI century. Price: 3€. As of 2021 the castle is closed for refurbishing.

• Puerta Aguilera: one of the city gates remaining from the construction of the second wall in the XIV century. It is the main entrance to the Town Square.
• Palace of the Marquises of Berlanga: a renaissance palace from the XVI century built for the Marquises of Berlanga Juan de Tovar and Juana Enríquez, partially responsible of the towns grandieur. Only the facade remains.

• Plaza del Mercado (Market Square): located in front of the palace. There is a sculpture of Fray Tomás de Berlanga (1487-1551), arguably the most illustrious neighbor of Berlanga de Duero: third bishop of Panamá, discoverer of the Galápagos Islands, Counsellor of King Carlos V and the original designer of the Panama Canal.
• Colegiata de Santa María del Mercado: a beautiful church which is an excellent example of the transition between the Gothic and Renaissance styles. It was declared a National Monument in 1931. There is a dissected caiman offered to the church by Fray Tomás from one of his trips to the Americas.

Where (and what) to eat in Berlanga de Duero

• Casa Vallecas: in the Hotel Fray Tomás, this restaurant has managed to bring classic Castilian recipes and update them to modern standards. With focus on game meat and mushrooms of the area. This restaurant is a bit pricey for the area. Recommendations: degustation menu, paloma torcaz con salsa de boletus (ringdove with Boletus sauce), perdiz estofada (stewed quail), virgin lobster tartare. Interesting to visit during truffle or micology theme days.

• Café Bar La Plaza: a bar with a terrace on the main square that serves their famous torreznos. Recommendations: torreznos (fried pork belly).

Where to stay in Berlanga de Duero

In Berlanga de Duero I will recommend three places to stay. If you want a central, modern and comfortable accommodation, have a look at Hotel Rural Villa de Berlanga, located in front of the Colegiata. If you want a more historical location, definitely go for Hotel Fray Tomás, located in an old palace of the XV century and also home to Casa Vallecas, one of the best restaurants in town. Lastly, if you’re more into outdoor activities, book a room in Hotel Las Casas de Pandreula, located just outside of town, with views to the main square and whirlpool bathtubs.

Closing statement

This post is part of a larger post showing a very beautiful route through historical villages in the region of Soria spanning through the Frontera del Duero, the border between the Christian realms and the Muslim caliphate around the 10th century. Make sure you have a look to the full post here:

→ Route in Soria: a 7-stop itinerary through medieval towns

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