What to do in Valletta, Malta: Top 12 things to do in the Europe’s smallest capital
Valletta is one of the most charming cities I have ever been in, in part because I didn’t know much about it and it was a huge surprise. This is a brief guide on what to do in Valletta, but first, a little introduction.
Valletta is the capital of Malta and it is a surprise to everyone that sets foot in it. It is the smallest capital in the European Union, with only 6,000 inhabitants. It is also the southernmost capital in Europe. Valletta is one little hidden gem in the middle of the Mediterranean sea, with beautiful yellow stone pallazzos from the 16th century, a wonderful organization for an old town, a beautiful contrast between the old buildings and the decadent bohemian charm of many of its bars and shops, and a perfect place to “get lost” (it is hard to literally get lost because of its size).
Valletta was founded in the 16th century by the Knights Hospitaller (or the Order of the Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem), and less than a decade later it had become the capital of Malta. It is one of the three officially recognized World Heritage Sites by UNESCO, and it is no surprise if you see its beautiful Baroque palaces, gardens and churches, all surounded by the city’s fortifications and the view of the Mediterranean sea all around.
Here are a few things that you must see do you are visiting Valletta:
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1. Wander around Valletta’s limestone streets
The most charming part of Valletta is the streets lined with yellow stone. From the 16th century Baroque palazzos to the “bigger” streets, they all have an old time charm. Step away from the main arteries of the city and let yourself wander along narrow alleys and you will discover a part of Valletta just for yourself.
Pay attention to the Maltese balconies, which vary in form, material and colour, but define the Maltese urban landscape, more so in Valletta. The stone open balconies, more typical of richer houses, are more ornate. However, the closed wooden coloured balconies are the most unique ones, thatgive Valletta its own style.
Another fantastic feature of Valletta is that, since it is so small and sitting on a rock surrounded by sea, you can basically see the water from most spots in Valletta, and the inclination on the streets, solved by limestone staircases (sometimes demanding) are absolutely fantastic and help you stay in shape!
2. Admire the iconic dome of the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
The iconic dome that you see in basically any picture of Valletta (or Malta, for that matter) is the dome of the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. The original church was built in the 16th century but it was severely damaged during the Second World War and had to be rebuilt. Inside you can find a 17th century fresco painting of Our Lady of Mount Carmel.
The dome can be seen from pretty much anywhere in Valletta, but the best view is definitely from the sea.
3. Get the best views of the three cities at the Upper Barrakka Gardens
One of the most visited landmarks in Valletta are the Upper Barrakka Gardens, a public garden in the eastern coast of the city. They are located on the upper tier of St. Peter and Paul Bastion, built in the 16th century (like most of the city). The gardens were originally used for recreation for the knights of the Order of Saint John.
The gardens offer a panoramic view of the Grand Harbour, including the three cities: Senglea, Birgu and Cospicua.
You can also see the Saluting Battery, with 8 cannons that have been firing every day at noon for almost 500 years. It started as a timekeeping device and it is now kept to commemorate the Naval forces that used to protect Valletta.
4. Learn some history at the National War Museum at Fort St. Elmo
Because of its strategic location in the Mediterranean sea, Malta has been coveted by many military forces and has been occupied by many in the last 1,000 years, including the Romans, Spanish, French and British. For this reason, many forts were built in and around Valletta to help protect the city (and country) from military offenses.
One of the most important forts in Valletta is Fort St. Elmo, located in the outermost part of the city and working as a first protection. Today it is the National War Museum and it contains exhibitions covering all military conflicts of Malta from 2,500 BC and the Bronze Age to World War II.
Opening hours: Mon-Sun 09-18 (17 during low season), Price: 10€.
5. Visit the intricate St. John’s Co-Cathedral
St. John’s Co-Cathedral is, as the name suggests, one of the cathedrals in Malta, sharing duties with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina. The building, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was built by the Order of St. John, who founded the city, in the end of the 16th century.
From the outside it looks particularly unimpressive, but the inside is an explosion of art and creativity. It was redesigned in the 17th century with Baroque frescos and ornaments. It is considered to be on the finest examples of high Baroque architecture in Europe.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 09.30-16,30, Sat: 9.30-12.30, Price: 10€.
6. Get some quiet time at the Lower Barrakka Gardens
Unlike their Upper counterpart, the Lower Barrakka Gardens are much more quiet and less crowded, and the vegetation much more lush. This garden is located on top of St. Christopher’s Bastion, which is lower than St. Peter and Paul’s Bastion (hence the name). Although less spectacular due to the height, the Lower Barrakka Gardens offer a nice view over the Grand Harbour as well.
Right across the gardens you will find the Memorial Siege Bell, to commemmorate Malta’s courage during the siege that occured during World War II. This spot offers fantastic views of Fort Ricasoli which, together with Fort St. Elmo, commands the entrance from the open sea to the Grand Harbour. Today it is mostly used as a filming location, appearing in movies like Gladiator, Troy, Agora or Assassin’s Creed, and in HBO’s hit series Game of Thrones.
→ ‘Game of Thrones’ locations that you can visit in Malta
7. Go on a boat tour at the Grand Harbour
The Grand Harbour is the most important seaport in Malta. It is located in a natural harbour surrounded by Valletta (to the north) and the Three Cities Cospicua, Birgu (Vittoriosa) and Senglea (to the south). Its entrance is commanded by Fort St. Elmo and Fort Ricasoli and their respective breakwaters.
You can have a nice guided boat tour around the main landmarks in the Grand Harbour lasting around 35 minutes. Among others, you will see Vittoriosa (or Birgu), the first home of the Knights of Saint John, as well as some of the fortifications protecting the harbour. Another option is to hire a boat taxi to cross the harbour, from Valletta to Birgu or Senglea (or vice versa). You can request a booking through this link.
If you have more time and you have your basecamp in Sliema, a nice and more complete option is to take a combined Marsamxett Harbour and Grand Harbour tour, which starts in Sliema and sails around the peninsula where Valletta is located, all the way to Grand Harbour, exploring also the creeks around the area.
In our case, since we were celebrating my friend’s 30th birthday, we decided to hire a private sailboat leaving from the Great Harbour and sailing around the island. We did that through Click & Boat. It is definitely not a cheap option, but it really was one of the best experiences during my trip to Malta.
8. See Valletta at its best from the Sliema ferry
Speaking about Sliema, this city is located noth of Valletta, in the opposite side compared to the Three Cities, in another natural harbour called Marsamxett. Sliema does not share the outstanding beauty and charm of Valletta (although it has some nice areas) but it is more convinient in terms of accommodation (both offer and price) and shopping facilities.
In any case, The best view of the city of Valletta is from the ferry that connects it to Sliema, which takes just a few minutes and it costs as little as 1.5€. For the best views, make sure you match your ferry ride with the sunrise or sunset, so the city changes its colours (and you avoid some of the heat). Have a look at their schedules and prices in the Valletta Ferry website.
9. Take some quirky pictures of Valletta’s vintage stores and bars
One of the most characteristic features of Valletta are the little vintage corners, with painted signs and quirky shops and bars that give it a not-so-capital-city vibe. There are many examples of this, so there is no need to list them. Just walk around and keep your eyes open for yet another instagrammable spot.
10. Check out the fusion between old and new at the Valletta city gates
Valletta has had many city gates along its history, starting with the original one built in the 16th century in the city’s beginnings. This gate has been demolished and rebuilt several times, either because of the city’s war history or because of redecorating. The last one was built in 2014 with a more modern style, but making sure that it fits (successfully) with the old vibe of the city.
The gate is immediately next to the New Parliament Building, which is built in modern architecture but also disguises quite well in the city with its yellow stone and brick-like structure.
The gate doesn’t end there. It also includes a former moat which is now a recreational modern park that fits quite gracefully with the old city walls. Also, right outside of the gates you will find the Tritons’ Fountain, built in the 1950s and being one of the most important Maltese modernist examples.
11. Walk outside of Valletta’s city walls
The buildings confined within the city walls are clearly more rich and organized. Outside of the wall (in the little space that is left between the wall and the sea), there are some areas that have a magical decadence that makes them a fantastic walk.
One of these is the Quarry Wharf. This area was formerly a warehouse for quarantine of the products that where entering the city. Right now they are no longer in use, but they add a certain soul to the city. When you walk between the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens you cannot miss it. It is also great when seen from the water.
My favourite, however, is the Wuestenwinds beach, a hidden stone beach with fishermen houses (which are quite photogenic). It is (as far as I know) the only beach in the city, so if you’re walking in Valletta on a summer day, this could be your cooling off spot! It is mostly only locals that go there, so it is not crowded.
12. Feel the British influence
The last ones to occupy Malta before its independence in 1964 were the British, and it is still apparent in the style of certain parts of the city. You can see a very British street at St. Barbara Bastion or typical red payphone cabins or mailboxes around the city.
Where to stay in Valletta
For such a small city, Valletta offers a lot of options in terms of accommodation. That being said, I recommend that you book your hotel in time to avoid running out of options or expensive prices. My whole-hearted recommendation for a mid-range hotel to stay in Valletta is Casa Asti, a beautiful hotel located in the very heart of the city in a limestone palazzo. A similar option, although a bit more expensive, is Palazzo Jean Parisot.
For a full splurge in a charming hotel in the center, check out Luciano Al Porto, next to the Upper Barrakka Gardens. If you prefer full luxury, then you must have a look at The Phoenicia Hotel, located just outside of the city gate.
Unfortunately, Valletta is not a friend of budget travelers in terms of accommodation, so I suggest you have a look at hotels or hostels in Sliema, a city right next to Valletta with much more affordable accommodation and well connected to the capital with the Sliema ferry.
For more accommodation options, have a look at the map below:
Closing statement
Malta is a beautiful country and somehow it’s still a hidden gem within Europe’s evergrowing tourism. It is of course visited, but sites (with exceptions, of course) are not overcrowded and prices are still reasonable. Also, towns and landscapes are beautiful, food is tasty and weather mild throughout the year, which is a great addition.
Continue reading about Malta in this post about things to do in the country. Don’t forget to visit the beautiful town of Mdina and, if you like hiking, follow this incredible hike through the Southern coast. If you’re a fan of Game of Thrones, you will also enjoy this post.
I really fell in love with Valletta when I visited and I am sure I will be back soon to explore a bit further and discover more hidden spots, quirky corners and eat some of its delicious food (more on that in a different post!). Remember that this post is just orientatory, and there are plenty more things to explore like the Grandmaster’s Palace, the Casa Rocca Piccola or the National Museum of Archeology.
If you’re staying in Malta for a few days, it may be a good idea to get the Malta Discount Card. This card will get you discounts of up to 50% in over 150 museums, restaurants, transportations and activities. This card doesn’t only cover the card holder, but also an accompanying guest and up to 3 children under 12!
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