Sigiriya: climbing the Lion Rock

Sigiriya is probably the first image that comes to mind when we think of Sri Lanka. This ancient rock fortress arises in the middle of the jungle in the form of a 200m rock on an otherwise flat surroundings. It is not a surprise, then, that it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sigiriya

View of Sigiriya, the Lion Rock

A bit of history

There are evidences of prehistorical inhabitation of the area around Sigiriya as early as 5,000 years ago. During the 3rd century BCE, Buddhist monastic settlements were established on the rock itself, creating rock shelters and caves.

In the year 477, the king’s son (by non-royal consort), Kashyapa, seized the throne from his father and moved the capital from Anuradhapura to Sigiriya, a more secure location where he could defend from a possible retaliation from his brother and heir to the throne Moggallana. During King Kashyapa’s reign, Sigiriya was turned into a city and fortress. However, in 495 Moggallana arrived with an army he raised in South India and Kashyapa’s army abandoned him during the battle. Kashyapa, seeing no solution, committed suicide by falling on his sword.

Moggallana, after the victory, returned the capital to Anuradhapura and turned Sigiriya a Buddhist monastery, which was active until the 14th century. For a couple of centuries Sigiriya was uninhabited until the Kingdom of Kandy took it as an outpost.

In 1831, during British colonial times, Sigiriya was found by Major Jonathan Forbes and soon after archeological works began.

Our experience in Sigiriya

Just entering the Sigiriya complex you will see the remainings of constructions and a moat surrounding the rock itself.

Sigiriya

Ruins surrounding Sigiriya

You can roam around in this area or just start with the climbing through the only entrance, a staircase going into a rock formation.

Sigiriya

This is where the climbing starts

You will see funny signs alerting you of hornet attack. Although the signs are funny, try to follow the instructions i.e. don’t fly a drone in the area.

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Funny signs in Sigiriya

There are a few steps (roughly 1,200) to reach the top of Sigiriya, but it is well paved and the stairs have a handrail so it is quite an easy climb. Additionally you will find interesting things to do on your way to the top, so you will have some stops.

One of the most interesting parts of Sigiriya are the fresco paintings of naked ladies, believed to be either nymphs or the king’s concubines. These paintings, believed to be from the Anuradhapura period (from 377 BCE to 1017 AD), are very special because they do not follow any style recorded in the area, so they are very unique. It is believed that originally 500 paintings of ladies were decorating Sigiriya, but only a few are conserved to this day. Fortunately, the state of conservation of the remainig frescoes is impressive, with bright colours and defined shapes.

frescoes Sigiriya

The beautiful frescoes are very well preserved

If you continue up, you will eventually reach what would have been the gate of the fortress. The entrance was marcked by a brick lion (hence the “Lion Rock” name) with the stairs climbing to the fortress passing in between the lion’s paws and entering into its mouth. The lion is no longer there, but the paws still remain, marking the way up.

Lion Sigiriya

The lion paws mark the entrance to the ancient fortress

This is the last flight of stairs to the top, where you will see the remainings of the fortress (unfortunately only the foundation is still there). The best part, however, is the 360º view of the surrounding areas.

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Panoramic view from the top of the rock

Mountains Sigiriya

Beautiful view of the mountains from Sigiriya

Alternative to Sigiriya

If your budget is tight or you prefer a less touristy climb, you can climb Pidurangala instead. There’s much less people and the entrance fee is only 40 rupees (around 3 $). And to top that, it has stunning views of Sigiriya! If you have time, you can climb both.

Sri Lanka4

View of Sigiriya from Pidurangala

Know before you go

Price

There are a few things that are important to know before you plan your visit to this magnificent archeological site. First of all, it is quite expensive compared to the prices of everything in the country (and also in general): the entrance fee is 3,900 rupee (around 30 $).

Difficulty

Another thing to bear in mind is that it is, after all, a huge rock, and that comes with a climb. Although the climb itself is not particularly difficult, it is not a stroll in the park, so people with impaired mobility may have problems to complete it. Also, this climb is topped, most likely, by Sri Lanka’s unforgiving sun, so make sure you bring tons of water, sunscreen and a hat. For an easier experience, try early hours (before 9 am) or in the afternoon (after 4 pm).

Sigiriya

There are 1,200 steps in Sigiriya

Also, as you will see in many of the warning signs, beware of hornets and monkeys. While hornet attacks may be dangerous, monkeys are not aggressive, but make sure all your belongings are locked because they may try to steal them!

Sigiriya

A monkey surprised by the accusation of stealing

How to get there

If you are staying in Dambulla, you get to Sigiriya by public transportation. There is a bus leaving every 30 minutes and it costs only 40 rupees (less than 50 cents!). Otherwise, a tuk-tuk or taxi ride will cost a bit under 1,000 rupees.

Where to stay near Sigiriya

If you intend to climb Sigiriya, you can stay around the area were many accommodations have arised.  Otherwise you can stay in Dambulla, situated less than 20 km away from the rock if you prefer to be in the city.

  • Backpacker: if you’re on a tight budget you can check out Dambulla City Hostel, with beds starting at 6€ per night, awesome staff and organized to meet other travelers easily.
  • Flashpacker: If you want a different experience try Sigiriya River Side Villa. It is in the middle of nature with clean and cozy rooms and family staff. Also you can rent bikes in the hotel and you can walk to the rock in less than 20 minutes.
  • Mid-range: we stayed at the Amaya Lake Kandalama. It is a fantastic hotel, perfect for relaxing after a hard day of visiting. It is very beautiful, with rooms distributed in fully equiped bungalows and it has amazing views of the lake. Also, it has a rural decor, with wooden ceilings and your bags being transported by a caw-powered carriage.
  • High-end: If money is not an issue, you can stay at Hotel Sigiriya, a four-star hotel with amazing views of the rock. Or go nuts in Heritance Kandalama, a five-star hotel.

Closing statement

Sigiriya has earned to be the top touristic attraction in Sri Lanka, and we can see why. I think it is a must in any tour in the country, so make sure you don’t miss it!

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