Hiking the Monk’s Trail in Chiang Mai, Thailand
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The Climb to Wat Pha Lat and Doi Suthep
One of the things I enjoyed the most when visiting Chiang Mai was hiking the Monk’s Trail. This hiking trail was followed by monks as a procession towards the sacred Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple on top of the hill. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of the absolute musts when visiting Chiang Mai. This is a very important sacred temple in Northern Thailand and you should not miss it. You can easily reach the temple by car or public transportation. However, there is nothing more rewarding than feeling that you earned it by hiking the Monk’s Trail.
READ: Chiang Mai Travel Guide: Top 12 Must-Do Activities
The trail starts in the city and goes up the Doi Suthep Hill. It first reaches the Wat Pha Lat temple and finishes at the Doi Suthep temple. As I mentioned before, the Doi Suthep temple is quite a popular place for both tourists and locals, so you’ll find a lot of people there. However, the Wat Pha Lat temple is still somewhat of a hidden gem (although it is becoming more popular), and the trail itself is even less exploited, so it is a wonderful way to explore the culture and nature of the region without having to travel far or being a tourist trap. Let’s prepare for hiking the Monk’ Trail!
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Preparing for the Monk’s Trail Hike
While the hike is not the hardest, I recommend that you wear hiking shoes. That being said, monk’s do it in sandals, so to each their own! Speaking of monks, you’ll be visiting temples along the way, so wear respectful clothing or carry something with you. Also, I recommend that you take some mosquito repellent, since there are a lot of mosquitos in the forest.
How to Reach the Monk’s Trail
The Wat Pha Lat Monk’s Trail in Chiang Mai starts at the foot of the Doi Suthep Mountain. You’ll find the start of the trail at the end of Suthep Road (and Suthep Alley). If you come from Chiang Mai’s center, just take a red songthaew and jump out at Chiang Mai University (try to find one at the Western Gate of the Old Town). Follow Suthep Road westwards. At the end of Suthep Road you’ll find an intersection where the Monk’s Trail (named here Phalad Nature Trail) is marked in brown, where you have to turn right.
Travel tip: Nowadays you’ll even find the start of the trail in Google Maps here. Check how much it would cost to get there with Grab or Bolt and see if it’s worth the time to find a songthaew and walk or get directly to the beginning of the trail.
Either way, you’ll end up at the end of a road that has a “No entry” barrier to the right (sometimes it’s up, but do not enter regardless!) and a gravel trail to the left with two green signs. The latter is the beginning of the trail.
First Segment of the Monk’s Trail to Wat Pha Lat
The first part of the Monk’s Trail that takes you to Wat Pha Lat temple is the easiest part. The incline is not too bad and it only takes around 30-45 minutes (if you don’t stop to take 1000 pictures like me!). It is also very easy to follow, since some trees are marked with an orange cloth (like a monk’s robe) wrapped around their trunk. Update: I’ve seen reports saying the trees are no longer wrapped with orange cloths. I am not sure if they were removed or it is a matter of maintenance. In any case, the trail is VERY intuitive, so it is hard to get lost. If you hike this trail early in the morning you may find monks hiking with you (effortlessly in sandals). It was not our case, since we went later during the day, but it was still magical.
Wat Pha Lat Temple
The first stop in your ascent is Wat Pha Lat, a gorgeous and still lesser known temple nestled in the forests of Doi Suthep. It is located between two waterfalls of a brook, surrounded by lush vegetation and atop a cliff offering fantastic views of the city from the adorned halls and terraces. Parts of the temple look like they are in need of maintenance which, in my opinion, gives the temple a decadent look that makes it even more magical. In a way, it feels like the temple is now part of nature, making it somehow more pure.
Second Segment of the Monk’s Trail to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Use some time to rest and freshen up at Wat Pha Lat, as the second part of the trail to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is longer and more steep. That being said, it is not as dramatic as it sounds. It is harder but doable, and you’ll be at the temple in 1-1.5h depending on your pace. Just be aware of your hiking skills and the gear you’re wearing. If you find the first section challenging, I suggest you hail a car or jump in a songthaew to the temple and skip the second section.
To get to the second part of the Monk’s Trail to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, enter the main road from Wat Pha Lat and turn left. Cross the road and walk around 350m until you see a trail going up on your right. That’s the beginning of the second section of the Monk’s trail. You can also find it in google maps here. As I mentioned, this trail is harder than the previous one, and can get tricky if it’s muddy, so avoid it if it is or has been raining.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Around 1-1.5h after starting the second part of the trail, you’ll hit the main road again. You’ll have to turn right and walk to the entrance of the temple (around 500m). You’ll quickly see more cars, restaurants and parking lots before the entrance of the temple.
Naga staircase
I’ll warn you now, once you enter the temple grounds, you’ll find a staircase that will take you to the actual temple, so don’t think your climbing days are over yet! This beautiful staircase is lined with two long nagas (the 7-headed serpent in Buddhism). You can also take a funicular to the temple, but there are only around 300 steps, so it isn’t really necessary. There are some shops around the stairs to buy souvenirs or some water before the climb.
Entrance and White Elephant Statue
Once you reach the top of the stairs, you’ll be at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. This is one of the most important temples in Northern Thailand. The first thing that you’ll see when reaching the temple is a statue of a white elephant. This statue honors the legend behind the construction of the temple:
According to legend, King Nu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom obtained a Buddha relic that broke in two pieces. One was enshrined in Wat Suan Dok, while the other one was placed on the back of a white elephant, which was freed in the jungle. The elephant is said to have climbed to the top of the hill, trumpeted 3 times, and dropped dead. In that spot, the king decided to built the temple found today.
The entrance of the temple is a hub of activity, with sitting areas, trees and carefully landscaped gardens and smaller shrines like the one to the Hindu God Ganesha or the hermit that the mountain is named after. It is said that paying respect to the hermit will bring you good luck! In front of the staircase, you’ll finde the facade and entrance to the inner shrine.
Inner Shrine
The inner shrine is the heart of the temple. Its center is the chedi that contains Buddha’s relics (in this case, a shoulder bone). This golden chedi shines brightly when the sun hits it. It’s a truly beautiful place on a sunny day. The chedi is surrounded by a courtyard filled with Buddha images. You’ll find many statues and murals depicting Buddha’s life and teachings. Pilgrims typically walk around the chedi and leave offerings to the Buddha.
The Wihans
Surrounding the chedi there are four wihans (assembly halls) connected by roofed corridors. The wihans have beautifully decorated two-tiered roofs with intricate decorations. The main wihan, located opposite of the main entrance, is especially beautiful. You can visit the halls, which have beautiful frescoes depicting Buddha’s teachings and a prominent Buddha statue.
Terrace
Around the inner shrine you’ll find a complex of terraces, offering a priviledged view of all of Chiang Mai. Being located on top of the Doi Suthep hill, this terrace offers one of the best views of Chiang Mai. The terrace is full of lush vegetation, rock gardens, smaller shrines and little corners to enjoy the serenity of the temple. Even when it’s full of visitors, you can always find a quiet space.
Vipassana Meditation Center
The Doi Suthep Vipassana Meditation Center is also located in the temple grounds. They offer several meditation courses starting at 4 days and up to three weeks (or more) where you can live the life of a monk with classes, meditation and mentoring sessions. It is quite rigorous, waking up at 5am, having only two meals a day (at 7am and 11am) and with many restrictions (for example, no phones!).
Closing Statement
I hope if you choose to visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (and you should!), you do so by following the Monk’s trail and take it as a day of pilgrimage and introspection. It was one of my favourite things to do in Chiang Mai, even when I am not religious, but it will let you enjoy the serenity of the Doi Suthep forest and the beauty of the Wat Pha Lat and Wat Phra Doi Suthep temples.
If you are visiting Thailand, some of these posts may be useful:
What to do in Chiang Rai, Thailand
Pai: Northern Thailand hippie escape
What to do in Bangkok: top 10 activities
Ayutthaya: a day trip from Bangkok, Thailand
Also, since you’re thinking of visiting Southeast Asia, maybe these will inspire you:
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