Discovering Penang: Quick guide to Chinatown in George Town, Malaysia

Penang and its capital George Town have cultural influences from many regions of the world. However, none more than Chinese. That is why George Town’s Chinatown is so interesting. In fact, there are not one or two Chinatowns in George Town, but three! This is due to the different waves of Chinese immigration from different regions of China. This created a more complex mesh of cultural heritage intertwined with the Malay, Hindu and European influences of the island. In this quick guide to Chinatown, George Town I will give you a brief introduction to the history of the three waves of Chinese migration and things to do and visit in these areas.

 

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Quick guide to Chinatown in George Town, Penang

While Penang is currently prediminantly Chinese in heritage, there are three distinct areas that are considered Chinatown, based on the time of Chinese influx, the origin in China and the main businesses they undertook:

1. Old Chinatown

Old Chinatown is the oldest predominantly Chinese neighborhood in the island, and it is currently very small. It spans along Lebuh China from Beach Street to Pitt Street (Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling), and between Lebuh Church in the north and Lebuh Pasar in the south. Perhaps the most iconic site in this quarter is the Pinang Peranakan Mansion.

When the Indian influence began to shrink in the end of the 19th century, the Hokkien community, enjoying a period of prosperity, expanded south to Little India, and some of the most opulent Chinese temples in the city remain in the area around Lebuh Armenian, such as the magnificent Khoo Kongsi and Cheah Kongsi temples.

Pinang Peranakan Mansion

Pinang Peranakan Mansion is a museum dedicated to Penang’s Peranakan Heritage. Formerly the house of Chung Keng Quee, a prominent figure in Penang’s history, now the mansion houses an extensive collection of Peranakan artifacts, including intricately crafted furniture, porcelain, and ornate jewelry.

2. New Chinatown

The New Chinatown quarter is a result of the second wave of Chinese influx around the late 19th century. Since the Hokkien merchants and businessmen had already occupied the area around Lebuh Armenian, the new working-class immigrants from Guangdong and Hainan took over the area south of Chulia Street and replaced the Anglo-Indian buildings by brick shophouses where they established their crafts (Cantonese) and food (Hainanese) businesses. The area extends from Carnarvon Street to Jalan Penang and Jalan Dr. Chwee Leong in the south. While there are not many notable attractions, New Chinatown has a very decadent oldschool Chinatown feel to eat, and it’s filled to the brim with shops and eateries! Additionally, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion is located in the area (see below).

Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

The Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, also known as the Blue Mansion, is a testament to the richness of Chinese influence. Its blue façade and intricate architectural details indicate the opulence and cultural fusion of the era. Cheong Fatt Tze was a Chinese businessman who started out as a cowherd and migrated to Southeast Asia in pursuit of fortune. Commerce and banking made him a very rich man, and he wanted to show that heritage with his mansion in Penang. Today, you can visit the mansion in a guided tour or even have a luxurious meal or stay the night!

Schedule: tours at 11am and 2pm, Price: 25 RM (5€).

3. Chinese Trade Neighborhood

When the Hokkien businessmen relocateed to the Armenian street area, they built their trade businesses along the coast, in the strip of land between Beach Street and Pengkalan Weld. This area was reclaimed after the shore was extended outwards, and the Clan Jetties were built on the fringe. Today, the main attraction in the quarter are the Clan Jetties, but there are also many interesting buildings, such as the Central Fire Station, and it is home to some of the cities most notable museums, eateries and street art. Don’t forget to try some amazing cake at China House!

Penang’s Clan Jetties

Penang’s Clan Jetties are unique waterfront communities that originated in the 19th century. These are traditional Chinese villages built on stilts along the northeastern coast of George Town. Each jetty represents a distinct Chinese clan, with each clan having its own pier and closely-knit community. There are several jetties to explore, but the most famous one is the Chew Jetty, with an extensive area and filled with cafés and souvenir shops. The Lee Jetty is one of the most beautiful ones and Tang Jetty has a gorgeous idyllic view of the sea. Also, both Chew and Yeoh Jetties have Buddhist temples that you can visit.

Where to eat in Chinatown in George Town

Let’s face it. Most Chinatowns in the world are an absolute foodie paradise, including the one in Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and, of course, George Town! This list could be insanely long, so I’ll keep it at five recommendations, but I suggest you also check out my dedicated post on the best food in Penang.

→ What and Where to Eat in Penang: Best Hawker Food in Malaysia’s culinary capital

Here are my recommendations:

1. Chulia Street Hawker Stalls

One of the most authentic and lively street food hub in the city, the hawker stalls at Chulia street offer most of the key Penang street food staples you should try and at a great quality and price. The stalls appear every day around 4.30 pm and are even more lively on the weekends. Try the char kway teow, char koy kak, lor bak, wonton noodles or even lok lok.

2. Teksen Restaurant

This restaurant has become sort of a trendy spot, attracting mixed queues of tourists and locals. The food is traditionally Chinese, nicely prepared and nicely served. The price range is obviously higher than other places in the city, but it is well worth the quality jump.

3. Kafe Ping Hooi

This little corner café (I say café in the loosest of terms, since it’s more of a miniature hawker center) is a perfect place to try different Penang staple foods, especially the famous Char Kway Teow at Tiger Char Koay Teow with duck egg stall. You can continue your foodie adventure by trying out some amazing Lor Bak or wonton noodles.

4. Ali Nasi Lemak Daun Pisang @ Sri Weld Food Court

While this may not be the best food court Penang has to offer, Ali Nasi Lemak Daun Pisang stall stands out for their beautiful and portable rendition of this Malay staple street food. Located in the Chinese Trade Neighbourhood just outside of little India, Ali Nasi Lemak offers different versions of nasi lemak, topped with egg, prawn, squide or fresh or salted fish or chicken.

5. Restoran Kimberly

This was my favourite place for the rich and flavourful Duck Koay Chap soup. The stall is called Mr. Por (I think) and this dish consists on a duck soup with flat rice noodles and topped with duck meat, offal, vegetables, pork, fishcakes… and you can order portions of roasted duck as well. Yum!

 

BONUS. China House

In the Old Chinatown, you’ll find the most amazing cakes in all of Penang. Although not Chinese at any level, this is a great spot for anyone with a sweet tooth! This space occupies three Chinese heritage houses in Old Chinatown, and is filled with cafés, restaurants, art exhibitions and even a music venue! I’ts like a hip and modern version of a hawker center.

How to Get to Penang

Despite being an island, Penang is very well connected to the rest of Malaysia and even internationally! You can access Penang by car, taxi or bus through the . Another option is to arrive by ferry, either from the nearby Butterworth, which only takes around 10 minutes, or from the island of Langkawi. The latter is a long and arduous trip, so it only happens during the dry season.

Lastly, Penang is home to its own international airport, so there are frequent flights from Malaysian cities like Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi or Ipoh, as well as some international destinations such as Bangkok and Singapore.

Where to stay in Chinatown in George Town

Let’s face it, the three Chinatowns ultimately cover most of George Town’s central area, so the offer in accommodation are plenty and diverse!

Budget

Looking for a cozy spot without breaking the bank? Chulia Mansion is your jackpot. Right at the heart of the action, this place is a steal for its central location. If you’re into that rustic charm and counting pennies, head over to The 80’s Guesthouse. Tucked away on the quieter side of Love Lane, it’s a budget-friendly quirky gem surrounded by popular restaurants and bars.

Mid-range

If you won’t sacrifice comfort but don’t want to spend all your hard earned money, Reunion Carnarvon is a solid choice. This boutique hotel offers small but comfortable and beautiful rooms very close to all of George Town’s attractions but with some privacy, and right next to some of the city’s best eateries!Another popular option is Campbell House, an old Chinese shophouse turned boutique hotel.

Muntri Grove Hotel and its sister Muntri Mews are other gems in the mid-range category. Think heritage vibes, spacious rooms, and a rooftop pool that’s perfect for lazy afternoons. If you can splurge a bit more, check out Areca Hotel Penang, offering 48 rooms accross 12 Chinese shophouses, all beautifully decorated.

Luxury

For luxury, Edison George Town is a stunner, an actual colonial mansion turned into a jaw-dropping stay. The Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, also known as the Blue Mansion Hotel, is perfect for those looking to stay in a cultural heritage building with all the luxury it entails! Especially when you’re interested in Chinatown.

And then there’s Eastern & Oriental Hotel, where colonial style meets dreamy location. While it is not exactly in Chinatown, it is one of the most beautiful hotels in the island and is located quite close to everything.

Closing statement

The Three Chinatowns in Penang are the home of some of the most interesting cultural heritage in the island, not to mention some of the best hotels, shops and eateries in the area. It is a must in every visit to George Town, so make sure to spend plenty of time in this neighbourhoods! I hope you found this guide to Chinatown, George Town useful.

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If you’re visiting Penang, I suggest you read my dedicated post on things to do in Penang, as well as the more specific posts that you can get to from it:

→ What to do in Penang, Malaysia: the island of cultural tapestry

And if you’re traveling around Malaysia, I think these posts can be useful!

Kuala Lumpur: discovering the Malaysian capital

Melaka, Malaysia: a Journey through Cultural Heritage

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia: where wild and tamed nature meet

Langkawi, Malaysia’s adventure island

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