What to do in Medinaceli: one of the most beautiful towns in Spain

Medinaceli is one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, with stone houses, amazing views and delicious food. Keep reading this post if you want to know what to do in Medinaceli. This Celtiberian-then-Roman-then-Muslim-then-Castilian town is located on top of a high hill that offers views to the valley of the Jalón river. In fact, offers views that are less of the Castilian fields and more of an Aragonese environment. The town’s name is a proof of the multi-cultural origin of this town. It comes from Arabic medina (town) and the Celt okelis (hill). This post is part of my Route in Soria: a 7-stop itinerary through medieval towns post series.

Following the story of Almanzor, the Muslim caliph that was injured in our first stop, Calatañazor, the story tells that he retrieved all the way to Medinaceli, were he died in the alcazaba (the keep). This was the moment when the balance of the war between the caliphate and the Catholic realms tilted in favour of the latter.

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Things to see in Medinaceli

• The Roman arch: First, you will the its magnificent three-doored Roman arch, built in the I century, while climbing up to Medinaceli.

• The town walls: Medinaceli was a walled city 2,000 years ago. However, the current walls are made of bits and pieces. While the main entrance was part of the Roman wall, the wall surrounding the alcazaba (the current keep) is a Muslim wall and some part of the wall were built by the Christians after the reconquest.
• The keep: over the old alcazaba  (Muslim fortress), the Dukes of Medinaceli built their own castle for them to live. Later on they would move to a new one on the main square.

• Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Medinaceli: this church was built by the Dukes of Medinaceli (and with permission from Rome). It was built in with a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It sits in the location of a former Romanic church, which was built upon a Mosque.
• Plaza Mayor: built upon the Roman forum, the main square of Medinaceli has a lot of Castilian personality. The most characteristic is the arched buildings surrounding it. One of the most interesting building in the square is the Ducal Palace, where the Dukes of Medinaceli moved after living in the keep.

• The “fridge”: the Muslim nevero. It is a stone structure that was used to keep the ice even in the hottest months of the year. Although very rudimentary, it is an interesting piece of engineering.

Where (and what) to eat in Medinaceli

• Asador de la Villa El Granero: this ancient restaurants is home to one of the best lechazo (suckling lamb) roast in the area. The medieval-like decoration and the smell of the wood oven will be enough to take you back in time. Recommendations: lechazo (suckling lamb).

• Bavieca: a hotel restaurant that offers a selection of traditional Castilian dishes with some more modern creations, as well as a great menu for 20€.
• El Aljibe: located in the Roman aljibe (the water storage) that offers traditional Castilian food with a modern touch. Recommendations: migas (bread crumbs with chorizo, pancetta and fried egg), sopa castellana (Castilian soup), carrilleras (pork cheeks) and cochinillo frito (fried suckling pig).

• El Rincón de Medinaceli: restaurant with a fusion between Castilian and Basque cuisines. Recommendations: judiones (stewed Castilian beans), migas (bread crumbs with chorizo, pancetta and fried egg), carrilleras al vino tinto (pork cheeks in red wine sauce), the homemade desserts.

Where to stay in Medinaceli

Medinaceli is a small town and as such it does not have a lot of options for accommodation. However, the few options it has are quite good. My first recommendation is Hotel Rural La Cerámica. It isa nice hotel with a beautiful bar and terrace. Next, if you’re looking for a budget option, I suggest Hostal Nicolás. If you want the most authentic experience try Ana de las Tejas Azules, a very beautiful stone house and at a reasonable price. Lastly, if you want to splurge, have a look at Casa Palaciega el Cuartel, a Renaissance palace with a garden.

Closing statement

This post is part of a larger post showing a very beautiful route through historical villages in the region of Soria spanning through the Frontera del Duero, the border between the Christian realms and the Muslim caliphate around the 10th century. Make sure you have a look to the full post here:

→ Route in Soria: a 7-stop itinerary through medieval towns

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