A guide to el Burgo de Osma in Soria, Spain

Burgo de Osma is a town divided in two: Burgo de Osma and Ciudad de Osma. The first one was built around the Cathedral, constructed during the reconquest. The second one was built around the castle. Burgo de Osma is actually built near a Celtiberian and later Roman settlement (Uxama), it became a village during the reconquest but it gained its baroque style during the XVIII century. It is currently the third largest town in the province, being the largest by far in this route (there is only 5,250 people living there, so don’t imagine a metropolis).

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Things to see in Burgo de Osma

• Plaza Mayor: the main square, built in a typical Castilian fashion and the perfect place to have a snack in a terrace It is the center of cultural and social life in the village. It is baroque, built in the XVIII century. Some of the noteworthy buildings in the square are the Town Hall and the Hospital of San Agustín.

• Palacio Episcopal: the palace of the bishop, built in the XVI century.
• Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción: built between the XII and XVI centuries, it started as a Romanic cathedral built by Saint Pedro de Osma and later replaced by the current Gothic cathedral that remains today, with upgrades during the Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassic periods. Thus, it is a fantastic example of the architectural evolution of the region.

• Puerta de San Miguel and the walled area: Puerta de San Miguel is the last remaining gate through the city wall. The wall, built in the XV century by bishop Montoya, surrounds the medieval portion of the town. It is also a great sight if you walk outside of the walls along the river Ucero.

• Castillo de Osma: the castle, built on a hill nearby, is one of the oldest preserved castles in Spain. It was built to defend the area during the reconquest, during the X and XI centuries.
• Uxama: the Celtiberian-Roman settlement and the origin of the town. There are some Roman remains and two watch tower from the Muslim reign in the X century.

Where (and what) to eat in Burgo de Osma

• Mesón Círculo: home of arguably the best torrezno (fried pork belly, the local staple tapa). Recommendations: torrezno (fried pork belly), zamburiñas (scallops).

• Arevacos: Mostly tapas. Recommendations: picadillo (ground chorizo)
• Alquimia de Arevaka: artisanal brewery in a very pictoresque square (Plaza de Santo Domingo). They make the very successful craft beer Arévaka, which you can also purchase everywhere in town. They also have a more fancy version of tapas. Recommendations: Arevaka beer.
• El Palacio (CLOSED): restaurant and place for drinks with an inner garden that has the best views of the Cathedral. (UPDATE: It may have closed) Recommendation: go there for drinks.
• Restaurante Virrey Palafox: the restaurant of the hotel of the same name, it is the fanciest place in town. It serves typical Castilian food, specialized in stews and roasts, and some more daring creations. They are famous for their slaughter days feasts, from January to April, which consists of 22 dishes all based on pork. You have to book long in advanced. Recommendations: slaughter day feast, alubias del Burgo (local bean stew), migas (bred crumbs with chorizo, pancetta and fried egg), roasted lamb and suckling pig.
• Bar El Refugio 2: tapas bar. Recommendations: tabla matancera (a table with torreznos (fried pork belly), morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo and jamón).
• Restaurante La Dehesa de Osma: the restaurant of a hostel that offers a great deal with their daily menu (only working days). Recommendations: salpicón (seafood salad), tosta micológica (award winning mushroom toast), sopa castellana (Castilian soup), grilled hake.
• Tinto y Leña: a very good quality-price balance. A bit outside of the touristic area but still quite busy with locals. Recommendation: menú del día (daily menu), croquetas, secreto ibérico.

Where to stay in Burgo de Osma

In Burgo de Osma, if you can splurge a bit you should book a room at Hotel Castilla Termal, located in the beautiful building of Universidad de Santa Catalina and containing a thermal spa. Another option in the same line is Hotel Virrey Palafox, home of an amazing restaurant of the same name. If you’re traveling with your family or simply would prefer to rent an apartment, have a look at this one. If you’re a couple and are looking for a romantic getaway, I suggest this other apartment.

Closing statement

This post is part of a larger post showing a very beautiful route through historical villages in the region of Soria spanning through the Frontera del Duero, the border between the Christian realms and the Muslim caliphate around the 10th century. Make sure you have a look to the full post here:

→ Route in Soria: a 7-stop itinerary through medieval towns

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