What to do in Calatayud: the forgotten half-blood city of Spain

Calatayud is a town located in the heart of the Sistema Ibérico, one of the major mountain ranges in Spain in the Community of Aragón. This city has a privileged location in between the central meseta (where Madrid is) and the Ebro valley, making it an important commercial strategic point.

It has a special aura because it has been changing hands for most of its history, from the Celt-Iberians in its birth to the Romans, under the Muslim invasion with a thriving Jewish community and eventually reconquered by the Spanish Kingdom. However, it receives mainly local tourism, since it is not very well known outside of Spain. Dive in this post and get to know what to do in Calatayud, a special town filled with art, architecture and an amazing wine culture and gastronomy.

If you want to know more about Calatayud’s history you can read more in this post:

→ History of Calatayud

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What to do in Calatayud and surroundings

1. Discover the unique Mudéjar art

Mudéjar is a term that references the Muslims that remained in the Christian-reconquered territory in Spain. The mudéjar art is what remains from that period, particularly in architecture, where Christian buildings retain a Hispano-muslim style. It is, in a way, the most significant Spanish architectural movement during the Middle Age, not because of its grandieur but because of its uniqueness, since it is not found anywhere else in the world.

In the region of Aragón, particularly in the area around Calatayud, there is a very unique sub-style of the mudéjar art, with examples such as Colegiata de Santa María de Calatayud or Iglesia de San Andrés. Additionally, some details remain in refurbished buildings, such as Colegiata del Santo Sepulcro or San Pedro de los Francos.

Not only the city of Calatayud retains this particular style, but many towns and villages in the area, particularly along the bank of Jalón river. Some examples are the tower of Santa María de Ateca, Nuestra Señora de Terrer or Iglesia de la Virgen in Tobed.

2. Enjoy the colourful houses and crooked buildings of the Old Town

In the Arabian fashion, most of the houses in the Old Town are made of adobe (uncooked clay bricks typically mixed with straw). With the passage of time, these bricks lose their shape, making houses acquire exotic shapes, such as a “belly” or very crooked balconies. Additionally, houses in the region are typically painted in different and bright colours, giving the town a very quaint appearance.

The town is clearly not in its best economical moment. Before, the main road between Barcelona and Madrid passed through the city, giving it a steady income of visitors (and money). With the construction of the highway nearby, people stop passing through the town, leading to the current recession. This is very apparent in the houses of the Old Town, which are in desperate need of refurbishing and even some of them are being torn down. However, there is a decadent charm to it.

Some of the sites to visit in the Old Town include:

• Paseo de las Cortes de Aragón: the main artery of the city, full of bars and restaurants with terraces on the main boulevard.

• Puerta Terrer: one of the main entrances of the walled city. It connected Calatayud with its neighboring town Terrer.

• Plaza de España: the main square of the town, home of the City Hall and some of the quirkiest crooked houses.

• Iglesia de San Juan el Real: one of the many impressive churches in the city. It contains fresco paintings by famous romantic painter Francisco Goya.

• Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor: the most stunning example of Mudéjar architecture, mentioned above.
• Basílica del Santo Sepulcro: another stunning church replica of the building of the same name in Jerusalem.
• Iglesia de San Pedro de los Francos: a church in the very center of the city that has a tower more leaning than the one in Pisa.

• Mesón de La Dolores: now a hotel and restaurant, this former inn is home to the most famous gossip in the region (you can read more here).
• La Judería: the jewish quarter, which was the second biggest in all of Aragón. There are remains of the Sinagogues and the street signs still carry the star of David.

Travel tip: if you want to get the most out of your walk in Calatayud, have a look at the amazing walking tours organized by La Sobresaliente, with one of the most enthusiastic guides I’ve ever met.

3. Taste the delicious food and wine of the region

The biggest attraction of the region of Calatayud is the food and the wine. Food-wise, Calatayud is rich in old school Aragonese and Castilian food, which consist in lamb and pork, legumes, cod fish and some unusual vegetables like borage or cardoon (milk thistle). The food in Calatayud not only boasts excellent produce, but also comes in great portions and at a very reasonable price.

Have a look at this post to know what and where to eat in Calatayud:

→ What and where to eat in Calatayud, Spain

The other side of the coin in Calatayud’s gastronomy is the wine. Calatayud has its own protected designation of origin (denominación de origen), which is very focused in the use of garnacha grapes, a variety that almost disappeared and that gives a strong body and flavour to the wine, combined with what is called viñedo extremo (extreme vineyard) and vinos de altura (wine of altitude), referring to the extreme culture conditions of the vine in terms of temperature range and low rainfall and the altitude of over 1000 meters over sea level, very rare in vineyards. The result is strong bodied, complex wines with predominance of black fruits, spices and mineral flavour.

I won’t get more deeply into it in this posts, so you can have a look at their D.O.P. website, or visit some of the most notorious wineries such as Bodegas Langa (that have modernized winemaking in the region and have an excellent wine tasting + visit to the grounds) or taste the Albada or Estecillo wines (both red and white), which have probably the best quality-price balance in wine I have ever seen and are available in most bars and restaurant in the area.

4. Be amazed by nature at Monasterio de Piedra

To be clear, Calatayud is located in what can only be called a desert. It is not officially a desert, but it very well damn looks like one, and it is also close to the Monegros, a real desert. For this reason, it is quite surprising to find places such as Monasterio de Piedra, a lush oasis in the middle of a very arid region that has stunning waterfalls, cave systems and very green vegetation.

The site is an old monastery that used the oasis as their garden. Now the garden can be visited and make it a day of walking in nature.

Fun fact: a monk from Monasterio de Piedra brought cocoa from the Americas and it was here where it was first cooked to discover its flavour. You’re welcome for chocolate.

The whole site has become quite an attraction for the region. Now, on top of the lush gardens, you can follow a monumental visit of the monastery, a wine museum and even sleep in the monastery hotel and relax in the spa. Full disclosure, I think everything is too well kept. While this may seem as a good think, I think especially the garden looks a bit artificial, with over-defined roads and strict directions. In any case, it is still stunning and worth the trip.

Travel tip: the schedule for the park is from 9.00 to 18.00 (last entrance at 16.30) and to the monastery from 10.00 to 18.00 (last entrance at 17.30). the price is 16€, which is quite steep, but I still recommend the visit. You can buy your tickets in advance here.

5. Explore the ruins of the Citadel of Qal’at Ayyub

Go back to ancient Arabian times by visiting the Castle of Ayyub, the Arabian fortification governing the city atop the hill. This castle was built in 716 when the city emigrated from the old Roman settlement of Augusta Bilbilis to the current location of the castle. This makes it the oldest islamic fortification in all of Al-Andalus. There is quite a climb to get to the fortification from the town, so perhaps it is easier to go by car.

6. Visit the old Roman settlement of Augusta Bilbilis

As I mentioned in this post about the history of Calatayud, the city gained importance during Roman times as Augusta Bilbilis, and the remains of the settlement from the I-II century A.D. can be visited. The city was home of Marcial, one of the greatest latin poets in Roman history. Some of the structures that remain are the forum, the theater, the thermal baths and some houses.

Travel tip: the Roman settlement is located 5 km away from the current city, so it is better to go there by car.

Photo credit: santiago lopez-pastor with CC BY-SA 2.0.

7. Have a meal at Mesón de la Dolores

Mesón de la Dolores is a hotel and restaurant in the historical site of the inn where the biggest gossip in town (and arguably in 19th century Spain) happened. Have a look at this post where I briefly explain the story of Dolores, the most notable local of Calatayud. Regardless of its past, Mesón de la Dolores is a charming hotel, with a decor showing the style of 19th century Aragón.

Also, its restaurant offers really nice meals at a reasonable price (a bit steep for the region but overall a good quality-price ratio, especially the lunch set menu). The food in Mesón de la Dolores is mainly traditional Aragonese food, with emphasis on lamb, migas (breadcrumbs with chorizo, pancetta, egg and grapes) and such. Have a look at this post about the food in Calatayud, including at Mesón de la Dolores. You can read more about it in this post.

As an homage to its history and name, the basement of the hotel has been converted into a museum of La Dolores, showcasing the actual life of the woman that put Calatayud back in the map for a gossip. This part of the hotel also contains a wine cellar where you can have an amazing wine tasting experience of the wines in the regions (I personally know the man in charge of these tastings and he is amazing!).

8. Visit one of the many churches in town

For the size of Calatayud, the amount of churches as well as their size and beauty is incredible. From the Mudéjar churches Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, Iglesia de San Andrés or Santuario de la Virgen de la Peña (fully refurbished after the war), to the church of San Juan el Real, with a Mudéjar outside and a Baroque inside and featuring fresco paintings by Goya; and to the leaning tower of the french church San Pedro de los Francos or the proto-Baroque Colegiata del Santo Sepulcro; your options are many!

Don’t forget to visit the Hermitage of San Roque, the patron Saint of the city, located in the hills above town. The hermitage is not particularly interesting, but it has great views of the city and the whole town meets there at dawn during the feast of San Roque in the main town festivities to eat churros with hot chocolate and sing.

9. Spend a night in a Pope’s house

Perhaps not the main attraction, but definitely something you wouldn’t expect in this region and a really interesting accommodation is the Palace of Pope Luna in Illueca, a municipality located 40 km from Calatayud. It is a Renaissance palace with Italian style built between the 14th and 16th centuries. This castle was the home of the Luna family and the birth place of Pope Benedict XIII, also known as Papa Luna. Now it has become a hotel (a parador, which is a Spanish term for accommodations in historical locations) that is quite simple but special. Don’t forget to take the guided tour of the building!

10. Go nuts buying shoes

Speaking of Illueca, it is also a perfect spot to buy shoes. It is home to many factories, so you can buy shoes of known brands at a fraction of the price! My favourite spot to buy shoes in Illueca is Sancho Asensio, a big warehouse where you can find dress, street and sport shoes as well as some clothes.

If you are based in Calatayud, worry not! There is a huge store with products form Illueca, with shoes and clothes spread in two floors. You won’t leave without buying!

11. Have a blast during San Roque

San Roque is the patron Saint of the city and, as such, they celebrate it big! Similar to San Fermines in Pamplona (at a smaller scale), the town festivities last for 4-5 days every year in the middle of August. Although one of the main pillars of this festivities are bullfighting and related activities (which I do not condone), you can still enjoy it fully without participating in it. The hang of it is that you must join a peña (a group or association).

There are several peñas, each of them with their own members, colors and meeting place. The good thing is that by signing up in one of them you will be able to join most of the events in any of them, including all meals throughout the festivities as well as concerts that happen continuously in each meeting place. The line up is mainly national, which makes it perfect to integrate with local culture. Expect crazy parties until after the sunrise and tons of food for which you don’t have to pay extra. Some of the main events of the festivities include the chupinazo, which is basically a massive food fight similar to la tomatina in Buñol but not restricted to tomatoes; a competition of homemade decorated boats that must float in the river and going up the hill to the Hermitage of San Roque for sunrise with churros and hot chocolate after 4 days of partying.

12. Go on a day trip

It’s strategic location makes Calatayud a great base to explore the regions nearby. There are many kind of day trips you can take from Calatayud, from city excursions to hikes in nature.

The most obvious day trip from Calatayud is Zaragoza, the capital of Aragón. With Roman ruins, beautiful mudéjar architecture in La Seo Cathedral or Aljafería Palace and the massive Basílica del Pilar. Zaragoza also boasts a thriving culinary scene, with a fun old town filled to the brim with tapas bars as well as some fine dining options and award winning cocktails. You can easily get there from Calatayud with the regional or fast trains.

Another nearby city to visit is Tarazona, at the foothill of Moncayo. As many places in the area it has Roman ruins, mudéjar architecture, stunning churches and very local gastronomy, being famous for their torreznos. Some of the sights include the Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Huerta, Casa Consistorial, the city walls or the old bullfighting square. You can pair your visit with a hike in Moncayo, the highest peak in the Iberian system.

A beautiful and otherworldly excursion is the desert of Bárdenas Reales, in Navarra. I explain our experience in Bárdenas Reales in my post about a route through the North of Spain. You can pair it with visits to the Navarran towns of Olite and Tudela.

→ North of Spain route. Day 1: Bárdenas Reales and French Basque Country

Another option is going south to the Teruel region. The capital city of the same name is very beautiful, but the most beautiful village in the area is Albarracín, with beautiful architecture, city walls and stony cliffs that make it perfect for mountain climbers.

One of my favourite scenic routes is the former border between the Islamic and Catholic realms in the Province of Soria: from Calatañazor to Medinaceli, following the last steps of Al-Mansur after the battle at Calatañazor. The route is full of beautiful towns, amazing food, historical sites and even castles! And it ends in one of Spain’s most beautiful towns: Medinaceli. Have a look at this post where I describe this route in Soria:

→ Route in Soria: a 7-stop itinerary through medieval towns 

If you want to hike or bike in the nature, my best recommendation is Sierra de Armantes, where you can do the exercise needed after eating all the delicious food in Calatayud. Have a look at this route:

13. Relax again in one of the thermal bath towns around

With all the eating, drinking, shopping and hiking it is likely that you need to space out and detox. Take advantage of the many thermal bath towns in the region dating back to Roman and Muslim times to unwind! The best known are:

• Paracuellos de Jiloca: its water has healing properties for the skin.
• Alhama de Aragón: its waters are good for kidney, rheumatic affections and the respiratory tract. There are two main spas: Termas Pallarés and Hotel Balneario Alhama de Aragón.
• Jaraba: The water in Jaraba is said to have beneficial properties for fibromyalgia, arthrosis and stress. The town has more establishments to enjoy it and is surrounded by nature and hiking trails. Some of the best spas are Balneario Sicilia and Balneario de la Virgen.

You can enjoy the healing properties of these waters, since all three towns have public fountains where you can fill your bottles for a nice home-based DIY treatment.

Where to stay in Calatayud

Calatayud is quite a small city, so the options for accommodation are limited, especially in August and September when the town fills up for the San Roque and Ferias celebrations occur, so make sure to book in advance. This are my recommendations on where to stay in Calatayud:

• Mesón de la Dolores: this one is an obvious one. Probably the most famous establishment in the city, this hotel has now 3 stars and is beautifully decorated in the traditional style of the region. Starting at 59€ for a double room.
• Hospedería el Pilar: located in the most beautiful street in town. This inn is right next to the beautiful church of Santa María la Mayor and conveniently next door from the brasserie Posada San Antón. Starting at 55€ for a double room.
• Posada Arco de San Miguel: located in a quaint and quiet part of town, this beautiful establishment offers also great food. Starting at 70€ for a double room.
• Hotel Monasterio Benedictino: if you want to stay in the best hotel in town, this 4 stars hotel is located in an old monastery in the center, right next to the old town but very well located to move around the city and to move by car. Starting at 65€ for a double room.
• La Perla: if you’re in a budget, go for la Perla, a small inn offering double rooms for 40€ and optional lunch in their restaurant for 13.50€ more.
• If you prefer to have your base in a private apartment, these are some great ones: casco histórico, plaza san benito, Erlueta, las Moreras, Casa Aljez or Segeda.

Booking.com

Closing statement

As you can see, despite being a rather off-the-beaten-path region in Spain, Calatayud has a lot to offer. From culture to nature and food, you can unwind and escape the hordes of tourists that crowd the beaches and bigger cities. If you need more recommendations on what to do in Calatayud, drop me a line below and I’ll try to help you. Also, if you’re in the region, make sure you check out this list of places to eat in Calatayud and what to order in them:

→ What and where to eat in Calatayud, Spain

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