A 6-stop route of vermouth and tapas in Barceloneta

We can all agree that Barceloneta has become a very touristy place since the Olympics in 1992. However, the locals of this old port neighborhood are feisty and are putting a fight to the “bad tourism” that is attempting to remove what’s left of the proud Barceloneta. And they are succeeding! With the preservation of many old school tapas bars they have achieved the unthinkable: to keep a genuine essence of Barcelona that, even though it is placed in the center of a rather overexploited area, is still fancied by all-time locals (and I include myself). But that doesn’t mean tourists aren’t welcome! Hop in and you will see that this route of vermouth and tapas in Barceloneta is a way to spend a perfect day and absorb the essence of what Barcelona once was.

Vermouth is an aromatized, fortified wine flavored with various botanicals. It is an old-time drink in Spain that almost came into oblivion but that had its comeback in Catalonia. Beware that this drink has nothing to do with Martini, despite having the same name.

A 6-stop route of vermouth and tapas in Barceloneta

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 1. Bar La Plata

Carrer de la Mercè, 28

This bar has changed very little since it was first opened in 1945. Although not exactly in Barceloneta, it is very close to Barceloneta metro station, so I will include it on this list.

Pepe, the owner and waiter of this tiny establishment, serves fresh and delicious home-made vermouth (they also sell it by the bottle).  They also serve a total of four tapas: pescaíto frito (the star of the show: fried fish), anchovies (unbelievably tasty), butifarra (a catalan sausage) and tomato salad. And that’s it. You know why? Because it needs nothing more to be successful for over 70 years now.

An assortment of most of the menu in Bar La Plata

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 2. La Cova Fumada

Carrer del Baluart, 56

La Cova Fumada is the heart and soul of Barceloneta. They were the creators of the mythical tapa “La bomba de la Barceloneta“, a potato ball filled with minced meat which is breaded and deep fried and served with mayo and spicy sauce. This is one of the musts in Barceloneta if you want the real deal.

The establishment is also important to mention. It doesn’t even have a sign on it, but it is still filled to the top with locals, and it has this Spanish old school decor and friendly service that is trademark of the country.

The musts? of course la bomba, but then it is hard to say. The pulpo (octopus) is amazing. The traditional capipota, a classic catalan stew made of, as for its name, the “head and leg” of pork, excellent with a big chunk of bread to dip (do not try this on a warm summer day). The braised artichokes. The calamari “a la romana“…the list is endless.  Just go there and ask the waiters, they’ll know what’s good that day.

A serving of “bombes de la Barceloneta” at La Cova Fumada

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 3. Bar Bodega Electricitat

Carrer de Sant Carles, 15

It doesn’t look much from the outside, but come inside and you’ll see this very genuine bar with extremely friendly and laid back service, long marble tables to sit together with strangers and barrels of homemade wine, sherry and vermouth. And the food…oh the food. My personal favourites? The “cocido” croquettes, the ensaladilla rusa (Russian salad) and the cold cuts and cheese platters. And vermouth. They serve it by the bottle and charge you only what you drink in a very unprecise manner.

All time favourites in Bar Bodega L’Electricitat: “cocido” croquettes (left) and Russian salad (right)

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 4. Can Maño

Carrer de Baluard, 12

Sadly it’s gonna be difficult to get into this one, as it is a local favourite with easily the best seafood in this list. This old school establishment has the feeling of the old time fishermen tavern, and as such, they don’t waste time in fusions or elegance. The concept is simple: good seafood produce either fried or grilled and with garlic and parsley. The highlights are the sardines (the classic), the prawns and the fries, surprisingly. But really, everything in the menu is fantastic.

Sardines are center stage, but the fried eggplant and the baby squid are also fantastic!

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 5. Bar Jai-Ca or Jai-Ca 2

Carrer de Ginebra, 13 and 9, respectively

Another classic in La Barceloneta, that opened a second establishment down the same street because of their success. The quality of food is, perhaps, a little lower than the rest of this list, but it compensates in variety and prices and, let’s face it, by this time your senses will be already impaired by the vermouth.

The main establishment is very small and with a classic taste, while the newer one has an Andalusian decor. Their strong plate? fried stuff. The baby squid, the fried fish, the eggplant tempura with molasses…there’s plenty to choose from and the vermouth glass is BIG.

Baby squid and eggplant tempura at Jai-Ca 2

Tapas in Barceloneta Stop 6. El Vaso de Oro

Carrer de Balboa, 6

This 60’s tapas bar is famous for its tapas, but even more so for its barrel beer and beer pouring skills. The long and narrow establishment, mostly occupied by the bar has a frantic movement of food and booze. You’ll have to “elbow your way” into the bar to be able to order, but you will not regret it, because the produce is great, the beer fresh, and the prices fantastic.

What to order? Well, it’s up to you, but I recommend the bonito (similar to tuna) cube, the anchovies in vinegar and the oh-so-glorious sirloin with foie and onion. And of course a non-stop service of beer.

Waiter serving beer at El Vaso de Oro

Bonus stop: El Xampanyet or Bodega La Puntual

Carrer de Montcada, 22

Ok, this is not in Barceloneta. It is in Born, but it is part of the routine me and me friends do (sometimes too much). It is a perfect way to relax after a heavy eating day. Their specialty? The xampanyet, their own version of cava (or more like sparkling wine) served by the bottle, with super light and refreshing taste, very needed in the summer in Barcelona. They have plenty of things in the menu, but my favourite is the olives stuffed with anchovies “for real”. It is very common in Spain to fill olives with anchovies, but in this case they put a whole fish filet in the olive…Beautiful!

The famous xampanyet at Bodega La Puntual

Closing statement

This is a very personal route I am sharing with you. One that I’ve taken plenty of times with friends and family alike. And now I want you to enjoy it, so if you try it, please let me know by posting a comment here or in Feast of Travel social media accounts or just contact me through the contact form. I’d love to hear your stories. Would you like me to post a similar list for other neighbourhoods in Barcelona? Let me know!

Continue enjoying Barcelona through all the posts about it in Feast of Travel. You can navigate them from the main post:

→ Top 10 things to do in Barcelona

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